#acaNoTier Cardston, Alberta to Cut Bank, MT, 73 miles | 1,000 Miles Completed!

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Nice, nice ride today and that wasn’t what we were expecting – not that we are Debbie Downers but it was that forecast we kept checking…

Tailwinds, downhills and very little traffic – most everything a cyclist could ask for. And lots of wide open spaces.

We encountered only about 10 raindrops all day and that’s when we walked out the door. Yay!

After making oatmeal with walnuts and craisins at the hotel we chomped down bagels slathered with peanut butter for breakfast and of course lots of coffee. Push ups, planks and prayers and we were on our way.

We didn’t eat again until we rolled into Cut Bank a little over 70 miles later. Well there was that bag of Tootsie rolls that jumped in my bag at the little market in Del Bonita and the peanuts Tom snacked on. We need to do better on that today.

We were ready for food when we finished at Cut Bank having completed our first 1,000 miles. Cut Bank is known as the place where the Rockies meet the plains.

Coincidentally the Cut Bank Brewery was on the way to our camp spot in an RV Park and the food truck was just pulling in so problem solved.

We are finding that averaging 70 miles a day works well for us but we are hoping for some higher mileage days if we get some westerly winds to carry us.

Also trying to eat only one meal out and cooking two in camp is working well. We will see how the next couple weeks go.

My day began with a missed opportunity to love though, and it’s been on my mind all day.

We had just read through the gospel and darned if I didn’t miss an opportunity.

Within 100 yards of leaving the hotel we were approached by a native named Jim, in need of quite a bit of dental work, and wearing a Brett Farve Jersey. He asked for money and although we didn’t have any Canadian money, I did have a Payday in my bike bag. He probably would have been thrilled had I handed it over.

I just couldn’t get Jim off my mind all day. Usually when there is a missed opportunity to concretely love someone, there is another chance shortly after. None today but maybe there will be tomorrow. It would have been just so easy to think a little longer about what he needed than thinking of my fast response.

Tom is fast asleep after cleaning the bikes, lubing the chains and showering up. The cows are lowing, the trains are rolling by. Out of one side of the tent there is a tepee and the other side, the sunset. Oh and did I mention there is WiFi?

What a charmed life we are living. #grateful

#acaNoTier Babb to Cardston, Alberta, 63 miles | Oh Canada

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Oh Canada, why do you choose to be besties with Montana? We understand the climbs but the rain, fog and cold temps don’t make for easy cycling. Be nice!

Let’s just say after the high life “up on the mountain” yesterday, we very much felt like we traveled to the valley today.

First we watered down at a 123 year old market that’s been owned and operated by five generations. Very cool store – it’s seen a lot of history.

After the first 10 miles, very few pics because… it rained. All. Day. Long.

Where we expected to get pics at the Canadian border, her mountains and lakes entering the Waterton area and the countryside, there was so much fog and rain, our phones stayed safely tucked away in waterproof bags.

And we were NOT expecting Crusher Hill this morning and that was just the beginning of nearly 3,500 feet of elevation.

And the unexpected ride in the midst of free roaming curious cattle and horses was a little like cycling among the bison back in Yellowstone a few years back. #coexist

The US border agent rolled his eyes as we pulled up soaked to the core and thought to ask, “Didn’t you check the forecast before heading out?” Why yes sir we we did. When we explained what we were doing he just shook his head and said, “Just a couple of bada$$es”

Lol. Just a couple of grands out for a long bike ride. #bucketlist

The whole day we found something to smile about whether it was the generous shoulders the Canadian highways provide, the smooth pavement, or sailing down the other side of long hills. There is ALWAYS something for which to be grateful.

Although there was no second breakfast, Mountain View at about 45 miles greeted us with poutine, walking tacos, sweet potato fries and a burger. We were wet, cold and ravenous.

Finally to Cardston where we opted for a hotel to dry out our clothes, tent and cook a simple meal. And then there were those Blizzards from DQ.

Oh and the old timer in the vid is Russ from Idaho. Check out is 1947 Ford. Sweet!

Weather forecast is the same tomorrow with a little warmer temps however there are no services on the 73 mile ride.

Although we have plenty of food in our bike bags, no services means there will be no second breakfast or lunch stops like Mountain View to take shelter in and warm up. Wahhhh

We decided to go big or go home, keep smiling and pedal on instead of laying up in Cardston.

And… the extended weather forecast looks a little more optimistic! That’s something I can really smile about.

#acaNoTier Avalanche to Babb via Logan Pass, 40 Miles | Logan Strong

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Today took us up and OVER Logan Pass on Going to the Sun Road. In the most fortunate series of events our friends Karl and Finn gave us a ride to Avalanche (the point at which cars are not permitted to travel up the pass).

As you may recall we rode toward Logan Pass as far as we could to the Loop a couple days ago on a rainy, cold day.

Just yesterday because we chose to ride toward Polebridge we learned the Pass was open to cyclists all the way and were encouraged to make the trek.

It was an unforgettable ride that despite some clouds went remarkably well.

Sometimes the things you think are going to be the hardest to do, don’t end up that way. That’s the way it was for us. #noprobs

Tom and I stayed close together all the way up. And we were awed by the incredible views.

Thanks to Karl and Finn for shuttling us up over roads we already covered.

We were unable to get pics or vids of a herd of big horn sheep on the way down the pass. Seeing them was also a high point.

Tonight we are camping in Babb, MT and wouldn’t you know it, we met another neighbor, Geoff, who is here for a Sprinter rally. What a fun guy to chat with. He gave us a deluxe tour of his Sprinter. Might be a home on the road for us someday after bicycle touring! Who knows?

 

#acaNoTier Glacier National Park to Hungry Horse, 13 Miles | Huckleberry Happy at Meyer-Finn Warm Shower

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From Tom:

Today we head to Hungry Horse, MT for a short ride to visit our Indy buds, John (Finn) Karl Meyer and his wife Barb.

Little did we know our ride back tracking on US2 was basically all downhill to town, which meant all up hill to get back to our campsite the next day to continue our ride over Logan Pass 😔.

We started off with our two day camping neighbor, Jay. He was heading to Whitefish.

We had our goodbye hugs a couple miles as he turned off. Of course a few miles later we had to duck in to The Trap Line cafe for a second breakfast and avoid a rain shower. Of course the rain continued and the waitress wouldn’t let us leave and kept topping off our coffee.

On the back of the menu it described doing The Trap Line in the 1940s. Back then the valley had 30 some saloons. You had to have a drink in every Saloon to do “The Trap Line”.

Finally on to our destination to a beautiful house on the Flat Head River. We got a well needed hot shower as well as laundered our clothes. A little bike maintenance on the covered back porch and we were ready for Finn to arrive from Indy via Kalispell Airport. After a wonderful visit we were off to visit the surroundings: Hungry Horse Dam, outpost shopping, etc.

This was our first “riding in a car” for over two weeks. Then on to dinner for a tasty meal at BackSlope Brewery in Columbia Falls. After filling our bellies with Aussie Burgers it was time to head back to the homestead.

Deb and I got our things ready for departure the next day while Barb got a toasty fire going in the backyard fire pit overlooking the river. Just imagine our evening ending sitting around the campfire eating warmed up Huckleberry Bearclaws with a scoop of ice cream on top amidst the best of friends. Need I say any more!!!!

Finn, finally we have your song request. 😊

#acaNoTier Glacier National Park, 24 Miles | The Sound of Sunshine

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Thanks to Tom doing his sundance jig first thing today the sun was shining all day long and we enjoyed a spectacular day. Thanks Montana! Thanks Tom!

Our friends Karl and Barb Meyer stopped by this morning to firm up our rendezvous in Hungry Horse tomorrow when Finn Dog gets here. THESE peeps are true outdoor folk and could be river or equestrian guides at any outfitter. Can’t wait to hear more of their stories tomorrow night when Finn get here.

First stop was the post office to see if our package arrived and indeed it did. Front panniers, warm gloves and a care package (daughter to parents instead of the other way around). Thanks Anne, Gordon and John! We especially love the chocolate covered Oreos.

Once the bags were on, we pit stopped for some more coffee, bagels, oatmeal and peanut butter. #biketravelstaples

Then off to ride toward Polebridge. We’ve been there before by car and knew we wouldn’t make it all the way since the last 14 miles are gravel. Nevertheless we opted for a short ride with a few hills to keep us honest.

Oh and we got a “pass”. Logan Pass that is. It is OPEN to thru bikers. So up and over we will go on Sunday, weather permitting to Canada.

We picnicked by Lake McDonald planned our border crossing then went back to our campsite to get organized to leave tomorrow for Hungry Horse and make dinner.

We will return to GNP on Sunday to hit Logan Pass.

And BTW we just heard the weather forecast for tomorrow. Another sundance is needed. 🤣

#acaNoTier Glacier National Park, 52 Miles | Chasing the Sun

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Cell and WiFi service is sketchy up here in Glacier, nevertheless we are blogging on.

It got chilly last night but we slept like babies, although we didn’t cry like babies when Tom gave the tires a feel and discovered a rear flat. I cooked some breakfast while he quickly changed it.

In short order we tooled around West Glacier looking for WiFi and scouted out the Belton Chalet tap room to meet our Indy friends on Saturday.

Logan Pass is still closed to through traffic but cars can go to Avalanche and bike traffic up to the loop. Now THAT was amazing! A route to nearly the top with no car traffic! Naturally we cycled as far as we could and got a little over 50 miles in but again it was cold, rainy and foggy. #weeping

Montana you are a fickle friend but we still love you. All day long we have been chasing the sun.

We met Jay today, a 24 four year old bike traveler with such good energy and knowledge to share (thanks for the Airdrop tip, Jay!)

Although a convo about his route and bike set up started the evening we finished it up at the campsite sharing some popcorn, a couple Shandys and hearing all about his family, girlfriend, Ellie, and future plans. He’s camping at the site next to us and will also lay up a day to do some exploring in GNP.

As we neared our campsite after the day’s riding we stopped in and snagged some food, bevvies and two warm huckleberry cobblers with a scoop of ice cream. Can’t forget the ice cream.

We decided then and there to ride the pass again tomorrow if it’s a sunny day, just for the “sun” of it!

We will see what tomorrow brings. 😊

#acaNoTier Whitefish to West Glacier, 33 miles | In the Mood for Some GNP

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Today we had just a short ride to West Glacier where we will spend the next four nights camping in Glacier National Park.

The campsite is sweet! Lots of privacy, trees, bear box available and close to a bike path that leads to the Visitor Center and Village (good for charging devices but unfortunately poor cell and WiFi connection).

Apgar Campground has a limited number of sites for biker/hikers and we were able to snag one. They are $5 a person a night and not crowded at all since it’s early in the season. Super inexpensive!

Shooting for riding up Logan Pass tomorrow!

We ran into Melissa again today a NT thru biker from Seattle. She’d stopped to talk to Kiki another solo female cyclist who has already put in over 3,000 miles. Amazing, right?

And… Tom took his turn cooking tonight. It was marvelous!

#acaNoTier Whitefish, MT |A Day of “Rest”

Our day of rest in Whitefish meant only that we didn’t cycle to a new location. It was actually a very productive day and anything but restful.

  • Finally we were able to find a Catholic Church and we got to hit Mass up. We’ve been doing the daily readings most days but to get Communion felt like getting back to our normal.
  • Second breakfast (our NEW normal) that included huckleberry pancakes
  • New tires for my bike. Gotta love the name of them: Marathon. Aptly named for a couple of runners I think. Since the bikepacker racers are still in town we did all the labor on our purchases ourselves and finished still smiling even though we goofed on one of the tire rotations and we had to redo.
  • We also bought a front rack so I can carry front bags. Thanks bunches to our bigs, Anne and John for coordinating. They will overnight the bags and warmer gloves, General Delivery to West Glacier, MT where we will be two days from now.
  • Did a short shakeout ride to Safeway for food, fuel and bear spray (not to be confused with hairspray which is what I’m really needing). Yep some Paydays mighta also jumped in the basket also.
  • We talked or FaceTimed with most of our bigs and their littles and checked in with Mamaw and Aunt Lee Lee.
  • Finalized cycling and campsites for the next four days.
  • And finally, we re-visited Great Northern Brewery and the Farmer’s Market across the street for food and bevvies, finishing the night with more ice cream.

And in case anyone is wondering, our streak of doing 100 push-ups a day and a three minute plank continues. Wonder how long we can keep that going. PS: I wasn’t doing any before we got here. #ouch

Having eleven days and a little over 700 miles complete we came up with the bicycle traveler truths. They all apply to our ride so far and many to life. Maybe even your life.

  • You always ride down into a town and climb up out of it.
  • Everything tastes good when you are truly hungry.
  • When you change the tire make sure to look for the rotation arrow on the side wall before mounting the tire.
  • Trust the locals over the map.
  • Kettle Corn can always be found at a Farmer’s Market.
  • Eat local, drink local.
  • Rely on family, friends, and followers. You can’t do a journey alone.
  • Yes, you CAN do one more climb.
  • I should have brought those warm, waterproof gloves.
  • Don’t believe the media about people. People are very generous, kind and always have a story to share. Lean in and listen.
  • You only need one pair of whitey tighties.
  • Huckleberries taste good on everything.
  • God has something to say to you if you listen to Him.
  • Deb can always tell when Tom needs a Snicker Bar.
  • Sometimes you just gotta have faith in the equipment. When you are flying down hill just trust your bike.
  • Showers are way over rated but appreciated when actually needed.
  • Rok straps are indispensable.
  • Montana brews some pretty good beers.
  • Bike shops care about riders and not just selling a product.

What might you add to the list?

#acaNoTier Eureka to Whitefish, 59 miles | Tobacco Road

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We’re not sure where this day went but before we knew it, we were in Whitefish with just under 60 miles in and more hills tackled.

Although the day start chilly it was sunny! Yay!

Tobacco Road, the way Adventure Cycling mapped the Northern Tier route was lovely – some climbs to keep us warm and get our hearts and legs working right away, nice road surface and very little traffic. Just the way we like it.

Plus the bikepacker racers were on our route for a while. Tom chatted with a husband and wife, one from the U.K. and one from Denmark.

We also met Pierre, a French Canadian chemist who is bike touring around the area on an extended trip while his biologist wife finishes up work in the Rockies.

Before we knew it we were in Whitefish looking for The Downtowner where we will lay up a day to clean bikes, go to Mass, get new tires for my bike and get some supplies for the next couple days. And ice cream. Maybe twice.

We confirmed some disappointing news today, however, that Logan Pass is not open to through traffic at all, not even bike traffic. Not sure what that means for our next few days but it might cut out the trip to Canada and a little over a 100 miles of our trip. 🙁 We’ll see what the next couple days brings.

Not sure if anyone can resonate but sometimes it’s hard to take a day off when you’re building momentum and feeling good. Praise God we feel stronger every day, safe and well loved.

#acaNoTier Libby to Eureka, 69 miles | Now Montana… Be Nice

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The day started like this…

And ended like this.

After another day of riding in cold rain, western Montana decided to throw in some high winds and much more elevation today.

The wind actually pushed us UP a couple of climbs which was fortunate but the way it changes direction in the mountains without notice is not something these Hoosiers are used to.

With four layers on, our bodies were staying pretty warm but our fingers and toes were numb. Also shelter wasn’t available. There is no way we could stop because without the body heat the peddling generated we’d get even colder. If there is such a thing as a hot mess in the cold, rainy conditions that would be me. lol (Not Tom)

Keeping the bikes between the rumble strips and the pavement edge with impaired vision due to wet eye glasses was another challenge.

After the rain ended the wind increased even more. We found a sheltered area to fire up the stove to make some hot tea, have lunch and the sun came out. For a minute.

As we approached Eureka there was rain surrounding us but not on us. The moment we crested the rise to turn right into town and find our camping spot for the night a rain/snow squall popped up and we dashed onto a parking lot which coincidentally was a motel also hosting riders in this wicked crazy event: self supported bike packers racing along the continental divide, Canada to Mexico. Yep we quickly booked a room and ended our day of cycling.

Critter sitings included another osprey, some deer and a fox that showed up when it started pouring, cute little guy.

All is well in western Montana but I sure wish she’d start playing nice.

Heading to Whitefish tomorrow and a day of rest. Yay!