Keep Calm and Pedal On

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

Our Pub of the Day research started at 12:15pm today because… it was the most gosh awful day of cycling in lashing rain and wind. Rain was stinging our face, wind was so strong it was pushing us over and so many layers of clothing and rain gear on made it a bit strategic to 🚽.

Tom earned hero status today because he found a short cut to Doolin so we rode just 33 miles.

Worst part was all of the beautiful scenery we missed including the Cliffs of Moher, the Lahinch Golf Course and much of the lush County Clare countryside.

We popped out of our tent early hearing rain so we could quickly take it down before it got drenched. With coffee consumed we went all-in with our rain gear and set off.

We were soaked to the bone but still happy to have a slight tail wind when we had to stop at the weekly gathering in the Community Center for a pit stop.

Made it to Doolin 45 minutes before we could check in to our hostel so we checked out McGann’s Pub which happens to be our Pub of the Day!🍺

McGann’s wasn’t always McGann’s. It was originally known as Lafferty’s until brothers Tony and Tommy McGann, who had been living in America, came home on holiday in 1975 and decided to buy the pub.

Supposedly the early days were rough, but things changed when the Lisdoonvarna Folk Festival brought more people to Doolin.

From the 1980s on, traditional music sessions became a regular part of life at McGann’s, helping establish Doolin’s reputation as one of Ireland’s great traditional music destinations.🎻

For their warm welcome when we were cold and dripping wet, for their cold beer and hot food and to celebrate the risk two brothers living in America took after visiting Ireland and returning to put down roots, we raise our glasses to McGann’s Pub.

Also highly recommend Rainbow Hostel, our digs for the night. Carmel, 70 years old (doesn’t look a day over 50) has owned Rainbow Hostel with her husband Mattie for 40 years. Soon they are retiring and their son Brian and family will continue what they started. Mattie is a carpenter and a lot of his retirement gig will be renovating an old family cottage nearby. Take a look at the kitchen in Rainbow. Mattie is quite talented.

Towns we cycled through today included: Milltown Malbay and Lahinch

To view today’s very short video, click on the image below:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

If it would have been a week ago, we wouldn’t have found ANY lodging inside or outside for the Irish Open was played in Doonbeg, our destination for today.

The direct route to Doonbeg from our pod was a mere 16k away however we had some cycling to do. Today we were riding the Loop Head route all the way down to the end of the peninsula and back up again.

Included on the route was Carrigaholt Castle and the Kilkee Cliffs. The only issue was the wicked wind (and of course there is always rain).

First we had to ride against a southerly down to the bottom. That actually wasn’t the worst (for me). It was the gusts up at Kilkee Cliffs that were challenging with a loaded bike including a frame bag that tends to act like a sail that doesn’t give when the gusts hit. Nevertheless, we wouldn’t have missed this loop for anything. It was quintessential west County Clare and absolutely unforgettable.

First the tower house… Carrigaholt Castle was built in the late 1400’s for the last of the great Gaelic chieftans, MacMahon, and it overlooks the River Shannon estuary. It’s a fitting piece of land for such a majestic structure.

After reading about the tower house, there’s a longggg history of political struggles associated with it including a conflict with seven ships of the Spanish Armada in 1588 and then not long after a rebellion with England, whereby the castle fell into English hands after a four day siege.

Apparently Teige Caech “the short sighted” MacMahon then retreated from his castle and ancestral lands to the Beara Peninsula (remember we cycled there a week or so ago). The story goes on and on so if you’re into history, I encourage you to learn more. I know I will when I get home.

Subsequent to MacMahon’s retreat, ownership of Carrigaholt changed hands several times and today it’s serves a monument reminding visitors once again of Ireland’s treasured history.

Tom and I had the place to ourselves on this windy, rainy day.

We reached the bottom of the peninsula and gratefully started pedaling northeast with a tailwind toward Kilkee Cliffs. We didn’t know much about them but WOW! Sharing a few pics below but there is so much more to see in the video.

And finally our Pint Size Review of our Pub of the Day.🍺

Although today’s pub is about the same age as Buggles in Kilrush, Tubridy’s Pub has been renovated in such a way, it no longer appears to be what you might think of as an “Irish Pub”.🙃 I’m sure there are good reasons for this but, just sayin.

Of course, the Guinness is just as tasty, but it reminded me of a Ground Round without the peanut shells on the floor. So for ambiance, I’d rate it a one shamrock.☘️

As a side note, this Tubirdy family owned pub has a son named David who is the all time leading football (rugby) scorer in County Clare in the GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association) and that makes sense with all of the local sports paraphernalia on the walls. So that’s cool!

Also, apparently the pub gained notoriety when Donald Trump’s sons visited there in 2019. Dad’s gold course and hotel are in the neib.

Even tho the pub atmosphere was lacking, the beer was still tasty so Tubridy’s “scored a try” with us for being one of the first rugby pubs we’ve visited.

Towns we cycled through today: Doonaha, Carrigaholt and Killki

Click on the image below to view today’s video:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

Today was what we might call a “utility ride”, a ride without a lot of glitz and glamour but it got us where we needed to be.

We said so long to County Kerry as County Clare welcomed us aboard a ferry ride to Killimer.

Just two things to share today and both involve PODS: Our Pint Size Pub of the Day Review and our digs for the night. Let’s get to pints first.🍺

We walked to Buggles Pub in howling wind and sheets of rain. At least it was at our backs. I mean we couldn’t NOT do it. How could we quit on the Pub of the Day on the second day? Besides… we were thirsty.

When we walked in and asked for two Guinness, owner Carmel asked us if these were our first ones. 😂 We must really look like we’re on holiday.

No, we said, and grinned, “This is our 30th pub and we’ve been riding bikes around Ireland for 12 days.” Now this brought a smile to our new friend’s stoic face.

This traditional Irish pub dates back to around 1800 and the building itself was one of the first buildings in the area.

It has been operated by three generations of the Buggle family. Christopher, Carmel’s father worked for the West Clare Railroad and when it closed in 1961, and he began his work at Buggles. As a side note, Carmel shared that the railroad opened in 1887 and was extended to Kilrush and Kilkee in 1892. We’ll cycle through Kilkee tomorrow.

Carmel has nine siblings (two living in the US) and we shared a lot about our lives, and how to “fix” the troubles today. She is the most delightful, interesting lady and I’m so grateful to have met her.

And for the Irish history and hospitality Carmel shared, we raise our glass to Buggles, our Pub of the Day.

When we walked out of Buggles the sun had returned, typical of Ireland’s constantly changing weather.

Onto our next POD. Our glamping pod at the marina was unique and much appreciated in the fierce evening winds. Our tent would have been trembling. Heck, I thought the pod was going to slide off the dock.

Super clean, hot showers and bathrooms were available in the marina just a short walk away. A hot pot, mini fridge, microwave and sink were also included in our pod.

What will Tom come up with next? 🤷🏼‍♀️ Whatever it is, it’s always perfect.

Towns we cycled through today included Abbeydorney, Lixnaw, Finuge, Listowel, Ballylongford, Tarbert and Killimer. Glad we missed Ballybunion because just sounds painful.😣

More big winds are forecasted for tomorrow as we ride around the Loop Head Peninsula and make our way toward Doonbeg for a night of camping.

Click on the image below to view today’s video:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

Every morning before we begin our ride we take time for a morning prayer together. We take turns praying for mental and physical strength, asking God to keep the motorists aware of cyclists, to keep our bikes working mechanically sound and finally to put the people, places and opportunities in our path to do His will. And finally we pray for the intentions of our family, friends and neighbors back home. 🙏🏻 Thanks to all of you for your prayers, your cheery comments and good vibes.

Although we didn’t get to ride the Dingle loop on our day off, we SO enjoyed lounging around on such a rainy day. Our fellow adventure pals, Dan and Christie got engaged while running the Dingle Marathon at mile 20 a few years back. Can you imagine that?

We wanted to revisit the magical occasion while cycling the Loop and snap a pic for them but God must have had other plans for us.

Back on the bikes today we left Dingle behind and cycled up a 4.5 mile climb to the highest point on the Wild Atlantic Way, Conner Pass. It. Was. Stellar.

A generous tailwind pushed us to finish early so we cycled out to Fenit Harbor and back to add an extra 12 miles or so.

Without enough doggies to share pics of, Tom wanted to share a pic of something Ireland is known for… not Guinness stew, not its lush golf courses and not a trad music sesh.

When possible we’ll share a Pint Size Review of our Pub of the Day.

Every good day of cycling in Ireland deserves a proper finish. So, along with the miles, villages, history, and scenery, we might share about, we’re adding a new feature to our blog: Pub of the Day!

Each evening, we’ll raise a pint to the pub that welcomed us, surprised us, entertained us, or simply provided the perfect place to rest our tired cycling legs. We’ll share a little about the place, the people, the atmosphere, and whatever memorable bit of craic came our way.

No formal judging, no fancy ratings—just two grandpa and grandma cyclists discovering the wonderful world of Irish pubs, one pint at a time. Sláinte!🍻

Today’s Pub of the Day is awarded to The Brogue Inn, thanks to the friendly face behind the bar, Henry. Besides wearing the map of Ireland on his face, his words of wisdom, delivered in a thick Kerry accent, had us laughing out loud. And the way he darted about the Brogue, weaving between tables and tending to customers, reminded us of a leprechaun chasing a rainbow—always on the move and seemingly in pursuit of a pot of gold.

His quote of the day, again in his thick Kerry accent was… “I do what I do because no issues, no tissues.” He also tipped us off a pub in Galway to consider.

As an added bonus he also speaks Spanish – without a Kerry accent.😂

Three cheers to Henry at The Brogue Inn and that my friends, is our Pint Size Review.

Towns we cycled through today included: Camp, Blennerville, Castlegregory and Aughacasia

Click on the image below to view today’s vid:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

No pics from the early part of the ride from miles 19-30 because we were on a busy two lane, no shoulder road, with traffic. It’s heads down concentration and staying as far left on the road as we can without going over the edge. If it gets too busy we pull off.

As you might expect, the bikes handle differently with weight and wind is another factor with which to contend to keep them steady. So easy does it on the pics. Once we got to the Dingle Penninsula though…

It was nothing short of 50 shades of green, maybe more. And when the sun shines, it’s truly magical.

On our way to Dingle, our route took us to the edge of Annascaul, the hometown of explorer Tom Crean who accompanied Ernest Shackleton on the Endurance to Antarctica. Presently some of Crean’s descendants have opened a brewery and let me tell ya, their Scurvy Dog IPA rivals a Guinness and reminds us of home.

At some point during the day Tom said his idea of the perfect way to end the day would be watching the last part of the Irish Open while enjoying a Guinness. And that’s exactly what we did in Foxy John’s which is a hardware store (sort of) AND an old Irish pub.

I’m thinking the hardware side of the operation has a hoarding issue.😂

Have you heard of a baby Guinness? Those are shot glasses below filled with Kahlua and topped off with a splash of Bailey’s. They taste like a dessert and they kinda do look like mini a Guinness.

Or have you ever been served a pint of Guinness with a bicycle on top? How cool is that? Definitely makes riding in the rain and wind worth it. And sheesh they even put the valve stems in the proper places.😉

Just one more observation and not about the landscape, the weather or cycling. Let’s talk about the food and placing an order in an Irish restaurant.🇮🇪

First off, every morsel of food we’ve been served from Guinness stew, fish and chips (gonna pass on the mushy peas that look like guac dip), potato leek soup, the BROWN SODA BREAD and butter, black and white puddings, sweet potato chili, the full Irish breakfasts and the meat pies – everything is exceptionally tasty and we both earn “clean plate club” awards.

However… things work differently when ordering food. There is no dilly dallying when one arrives.

We barely have time to settle into our seats before someone is ready to take our order for the whole shibang. There’s no fuss, no unnecessary waiting, and somehow it all feels perfectly natural. Perhaps it’s part of the Irish way of doing things—friendly, efficient, and without unnecessary fuss. I can resonate with that and I wonder why it took us that long to figure it out.

We tried a few times to let our server know how much we enjoyed the meal and how well she took care of us. God bless her, she turned and said “all good then” and before we even got up to leave our table, she set it for the next couple who hadn’t arrived yet. There’s no fuss. They are efficient and they get $hit done.😂 I just wanted her to know HOW exceptional she was AND the food.

The day ended with a dolphin hunt. We went to find the bronze statue of Fungie, a beloved gregarious, dolphin who after being separated from his pod, lived in Dingle Harbor for years.

Towns we cycled through today included: Killogrin, Milltown, Castlemain, Boolteens and Annascaul.

Click on the image below to view today’s video:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

We weren’t expecting a ferry ride today and we weren’t expecting dry weather either, but that’s exactly what we got.

That and Kerry Cliffs. 🌊

The morning brought very soupy fog and a couple of climbs we underestimated, but the fog moved out long enough to get some good views of the Kerry Cliffs which we were sure would not be visible due to the stormy forecast.

We started our ride this morning looking at views like this but we never got the forecasted rain. 🙏🏻

Tomorrow we head to the Dingle Peninsula to spend a couple days. Laundry is at the top of the list. Inside stays, low mileage, and no camp kitchen are really making this seem like a vacation. 😂

In nine days we’ve cycled up and down these peninsulas in Cork and Kerry, seen spectacular scenery, meet some wonderful people and learned more about Ireland (mostly that around every corner, she’ll surprise you with some weather). So grateful!

Now we have about three weeks to get to Derry to catch our train back to Dublin.

Towns we cycled through today between Waterville and Glenbeigh: Ballinskelligs, Knightstown, across Valencia Island and through Cahersiveen

Click on the image below to view today’s vid:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

Today was different riding in two ways! There wasn’t a drop of rain all day and we veered away from the Atlantic coastline and cycled inland.

It. Was. Fantastic.

There were three climbs on our to-do list today, each one more difficult than the last.

Honestly, tho, none were awful. Tom motored right up all three. I had to take a couple 10 second breaks to recalibrate my breathing or just flush out my legs (I call this wrestling with the hill fairies)🧚, but both of us got it done.

We met a group of women on holiday about 10 miles into our ride who wanted to let us know we were the most courteous riders she’d ever encountered. She appreciated our riding single file, being brightly dressed and staying as far left as possible. That’s all good to know!

So many beautiful views today, many included our beloved walking fluffballs (sheep) that reminded us of riding in New Zealand.

Today was sunny and tomorrow is predicted to be a total washout with rain. We’re making our way to the Dingle Peninsula so we’re going to press on in the rain. I mean that’s what they make rain gear for, right? 🤷🏼‍♀️

Today we cycled through today: None! 👀

Click on the link below to view today’s vid – some good drone footage included too. 😉

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

Today we said goodbye to County Cork and hello to County Kerry, the second of eight counties we will cycle through.

As we’ve been spending time on our bikes we noticed big letters in car windows: letters L and N. Turns out letter L is for Learning Drivers who have not yet earned their driver’s license. N is for the Novice driver.

But I’m telling’ ya, good on these new drivers on some of these steep (but short) hills, especially if they’re using a stick. I looked down at my Garmin on one incline today and it was a 21 percenter. 😳

I wanted to share more about the pods we stayed in last night. Tom chooses most all of our overnight stays. He makes great choices, close to town (remember we didn’t bring a kitchen on this tour). He ensures the bikes have a secure place to be stored, and the lodging is a fair price.

These pods were brilliant, as the Irish might say. There were just two, and both located on a working farm. In fact two of the cows were expected to calf last night. Julie our hostess, also had two beautiful riding horses.

On our way into Kenmare, we made a quick stop at the Kenmare Stone Circle, a Bronze Age monument estimated to be more than 4,000 years old. The circle consisting of 15 stones is located near the middle of town making it an easy stop. Historians aren’t exactly sure of their purpose but we learned there are several of these stone circles in Ireland, especially in west Cork and south Kerry counties.

Tomorrow’s ride to Waterville will test our legs, lungs and heart as there are three gaps, or passes to go up and over.

The route today brought us to Kenmare though Ardgroom Village, Lauragh, and Tuosist. Just a shorty!

Click on the image below to view today’s vid:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

Before I share about today’s ride (which again, was the best day so far and yes I know we make that claim everyday but they keep getting better and better), I promised Boo, Michael, Leo (not the Pope) and Gerry I would share a photo from the time we shared in O’Shea’s Pub last night.

Upon entering O’Shea’s one of the gentleman at the bar, Boo, asked Tom “what the F is the yellow jacket all about?” 👀

Yes, Tom mighta looked like a walking traffic cone but on the narrow roads we don’t gamble with visibility so Tom explained the coat and that we were cyclists and ordered them he ordered us both a pint.

What drew my attention to the crew was Michael’s red “Make Bally Great Again” hat. Coincidentally Trump is visiting Ireland this week.

We’ve learned in our travels that if there’s just one topic more controversial and lively than England’s Royal family, it’s American politics (and we don’t “go there”) so when Boo asked where we were from I quickly said “Canada”. I mean Tom just wanted to enjoy a Guinness and I, a cider soooo… that seemed like an easy answer.

When Tom shared we were cycling from Cork to Derry, there were more laughs, roars and Boo dropping to do push-ups to get in shape for his next event. I told him he needn’t bother, that I’d put a kiddie seat on the back of my bike and carry him along.

A couple of ladies at one table and a man and woman at another joined in the politically incorrect banter and the beautiful lassie behind the bar kept everyone’s pint glasses full while the raucous laughter continued.

Turns out Boo is a talented photographer but I must say, he missed his calling for he had me laughing so hard I cried and others were equally as entertained. The evening ended when someone called the pub to let Boo know his dinner was ready.😂

We began the day being welcomed by this pupper outside a coffee shop in Adrigole. Turns out the barista is also a local musician who has performed all over the world. His music about the Beara Peninsula is featured in today’s video so be sure to give it a listen.

Our route took us through Castletownbere and after a couple of flat whites in town we cycled to the ruins of Castle Dunboy. No time to write about its fascinating history here but believe me, walking the grounds was a bit haunting.

Cycling on the Beara Peninsula was perfection. Scenic, unspoiled, windy, hilly, FUN. Below are a few snaps but please do watch today’s video while enjoying Gerry’s music about the Beara Peninsula.

Towns we travelled through: Adrigole, Castletownbere, Ballydonegan and Allihies

Click on the image below to view today’s vid:

Riding Stats (Link to Tom’s Strava)

Accommodations (daily mileage, elevation, etc.)

Route Tracker (track our northbound ride on a Google Map)

My brother John said the scenery on our bike trip might be same thing on different day. He wasn’t wrong but I will say, it never gets old.💚

Around every turn and over every hill there’s a little somethin special. It might be a touch of color or it might be a historic homestead. See that rock structure in the second photo down? What was the story here?

Today we went down another peninsula and as we looked across Bantry Bay we saw the peninsula we rode up and down yesterday.

The highlight today however was climbing to the top of Sheep’s Head. It was steep, windy but definitely doable and worth the views at the top.

The sprinkles came and went per usual, but tonight we’re “back outside” in our trusty tent.

Our pitch tonight has a pub and we met the loveliest couple from the UK, Sharon and Paul. They’ve travelled extensively in the US and all over the world. So fun to spend time with like minded people.

On the way to Glengariff we travelled through: Kilcrohane, Loughaun, Bantry and Ballylicky☘️

Click on the image below view more pics on today’s vid: