Author: Deb

It was an Oreo cookie type day with Interstate 10 for two miles at the beginning of the ride, 11 at the end and “good stuff” in the middle.

But first breakfast burritos and coffee were in order because adulting can be hard. And adulting in the cold and cycling even harder. We were the first customers at the truck stop when they opened at 6am and didn’t leave until 9am since we had a shorter mileage day and it was cold. I mean why leave warmth, wifi, food and free flowing coffee?

Once on our way we noticed something sketchy was going on with our Garmin devices; both of them were all jammed up and having difficulty acquiring satellites so we resorted to using our paper maps to get started. Oh the horror! 😱 Tom blamed accidental Border Patrol surveillance and I blamed it on an undetected Chinese spy balloon. 😅

However soon enough we were eastbound with a short stint on I-10 and then a glorious two lane frontage road with very little traffic and wait for it… a tail wind. The good stuff. Traffic was so sparse we even got to ride side by side most of the day.

We felt a little closer to home today because we’re on Central Time now and getting closer to Eastern Time.

Weather calls for 22 degrees overnight and sustained 20mph winds so no camping but Tom did snag this cute cabin for the night and it was right on route.

The other half of our breakfast burritos, a bagel, beef stick and cheese for dinner, a chocolate covered Payday for dessert with a bottle of red wine to share while playing Gin. Tom’s up 3 games to my 1. Darn it!

So grateful for our little cabin. The wind is howling, and I mean howling outside.

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#SD2KW, Day 21, El Paso to Esperanza, 82 miles | 1,000 and Some Change

We’ve been on the road for three weeks now and have gone a little over 1,000 miles! Yay!

Our first full day in The Lone Star State started with getting out of El Paso. It took us over three hours but we were safe and got a good look at many parts of the city. It’s worth coming back to!

Beyond the city we began cycling through several pecan orchards, many of whom were topping trees and burning orchard debris. Talk about getting “smoked”! 😂

We tentatively targeted Ft. Hancock (with a motel but no hot food or coffee) as today’s destination or six miles beyond the tiny town of Esperanza (offers free tenting to cyclists and is a truck stop off I-10 with food and coffee). With favorable winds, we pushed the extra 25 or so miles on to the Traveling Tiger Truck Stop after Esperanza.

Early evening cycling is just about our fave time to ride. Not only does the end-of-day light cast spectacular shadows on the landscape it seems particularly peaceful.

As mentioned, we headed for the truck stop, knowing it was going to be a cold night of camping but knew hot food was available.

Friends, let me tell ya, we are just a block from I-10 (and about 2-3 miles from the border). Truckers drive all night long! The trucks didn’t stop. Lucky for us – were it not for them, how would our country stay so well supplied? Right? The ground was a little rocky but we stayed toasty warm even with temps in the low 30’s.

Last night we were in a Fairfield Inn by Marriott and tonight we rest in a tent at a truck stop sleeping in the clothes we rode over 80 miles in. It’s feast or famine on the journey. And if this doesn’t grow our comfort zone, I don’t know what will. 😊

Have a beautiful Thursday!

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#SD2KW, Day 20, Columbus to El Paso, 71 miles | Trail Angel

Remember yesterday when I related the 40 degree temperature swings in the desert? Not so today. It never got over 55 degrees. Not complaining though. It was cloudy but the sun peeked out a few times.☀️

Well it’s kind of a buzz kill but we have no idea when we entered Texas. Having focused on staying safe in El Paso traffic and finding our way to the hotel, we missed the state line, soooo, friends, we have some work to do.

Most bike travelers look for hot coffee and bandwidth in the morning, not to mention bathroom facilities. We were good to go on the bathroom but really needed hot coffee and to do some weather and route checking on the Internet. However, Columbus is small and doesn’t open early. As we walked around the small town we peeked in Irma’s cafe thinking how lucky we would be if they were open for breakfast.

Sure enough Irma was making her shopping list for her restaurant, which is closed on Tuesday. However she insisted on making us toast and a carafe of hot coffee. After chatting it up with Irma we ambled down to the restaurant we visited the night before. Standing outside their building, we were able to connect to their wifi and get our online tasks finished. Luck, resourceful and blessings like Irma don’t go unnoticed or unappreciated.

Friends, Texas is a big state – so big it takes up three of the Southern Tier map collection of seven. It will be about 1,000 miles until we reach Louisiana. We are as of today, back on the official Southern Tier route.

We cycled east almost all day on NM-9. We started on that two lane road all the way back in Rodeo (when it started at the border of New Mexico) and cycled the heck out of it through Hachita, Animas all the way to El Paso.

NM-9 skirts the wall that separates the border between Mexico and the United States. At times NM-9 steered us quite close to the wall and we noticed an increase in Border Patrol policing the dirt road between NM-9 and the border. The landscape is also peppered with surveillance equipment to help Border Patrol in their efforts to secure our southern border.

We noticed an increase in discarded clothing and shoes and as we got closer to El Paso many, many full water bottles and a couple backpacks by the side of the road.

A week or so ago (before NM-9), a face peeked up and over a ditch, looked at us, and then quickly hid. Our guess is he didn’t hear the quiet bicycles approaching. Before we realized what we’d seen we were well past him. We have no idea what his story is, but just something to ponder and pray about.

Whether it’s the homeless communities we saw in San Diego, Phoenix and Tucson or our southern neighbors entering our country through the back door, I have no answers to these complex issues, only questions. I’m grateful for our Border Patrol who are doing their best to neutralize the border traffic, yet know there are neighbors in need just to the south.

Let’s just say all of our neighbors in need have been in my prayers. Every. Single. Day – That the under resourced have access to nutritious food, clean water, shelter, clothing, health care, education, transportation and employment.

My trail boss is waiting. Time to giddy up!

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#SD2KW, Day 19, Rodeo to Columbus, 94 miles | Old Haunts

Have you ever been to a place that you just knew you would return to? Maybe there was unfinished business or it was just that amazing?

On the other hand have you ever been to a place and known you wouldn’t be back because it was so remote or there was no reason?

Such was the case with Hachita, NM. Back in August 2021 we spent our last night on the Great Divide Ride sleeping in the Community Center in Hachita, NM (‘bout the middle of nowhere). Never in my wildest dreams did I think we would ever return.

But here we were today!

The plan was to ride to Hachita and stay however we arrived at 12:30pm and with the wind at our backs we sailed right through to Columbus chalking our longest ride yet on the Southern Tier at 94 miles and crossing the Continental Divide early this morning.

The temperature swings here in the Chihuahan desert can be as much as 40 degrees daily. In the mornings, it’s lower 30’s and by late afternoon in the comfortable 70’s so we frequently find ourselves taking layers off, putting sunscreen and chapstick on, and watering down.

Not only are we traveling a birding trail (by coincidence) it’s also a hub for stargazers due to clear nights, low population densities, high elevations and dry climate. We passed this sign this morning and thought… what if… It might someday be designated as an International Dark Sky Park.

Hitting the Lone Star state tomorrow but for tonight, good night from room #1 at the Hacienda.

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#SD2KW, Day 18, Douglas to Rodeo, 52 miles | 50 x 80

We rode over 50 miles on Historic Route 80. It was almost like riding on the Monon rail trail for a morning bike ride except… we had and a sweet (and I mean sweet) tail wind all afternoon into New Mexico.

Our reintroduction to cycling in New Mexico began in the midst of a high speed law enforcement chase. One “bad guy” going over 100 mph I think and three police officers in pursuit, with berries, cherries and sirens. No need to wave my little left arm up like I always do to let traffic know I see them. They were on a mission.

Keeping with tradition, we have choreographed a new state line jig for y’all. It’s our Mexican Hat (or for us, Helmet) Dance. Funny thing was, we did it right at the pull off by the state line sign while law enforcement continued the chase.

Today was just one of those idyllic days to ride. Clear sky, high desert, little traffic, shoulders and nice pavement. We don’t take it for granted.

We are staying in a little place just over the border, in a town called Rodeo (pronounced like the swanky street in California). Without C Stores or restaurants around we pooled our food together and this is what we have for lunch (and dinner). 🤣 And it tastes pretty darn good.

The birds in the trees (I think Cassin’s sparrows) chirped a victory song for us as we ended our ride at the Mountain Valley Lodge. Tomorrow more tail winds are predicted. Will they blow us into Texas?

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#SD2KW, Day 17, Bisbee to Douglas, 30 miles | Easy Peasy Ride

Before leaving Bisbee we couldn’t resist taking one more stroll around town and taking a few more pics, especially since today was a short ride and mostly downhill. The hardest part of the day was out cycling the loose dogs in Douglas. #woof

After leaving Bisbee we passed an enormous mining operation, Lavender Pit of the Copper Queen Mine and on to Lowell where several vintage and antique cars lined the streets.

Once out in the country it was downhill to Douglas. Douglas is a border city and our hotel is two miles away from Mexico.

For the first time it was warm enough for short sleeves on our ride however it’s still in the low 30’s at night so no tenting.

Tomorrow we hit a new state line. Hello New Mexico! Currently accepting applications for dance choreographers for our traditional state line dance routines. 💃

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#SD2KW, Day 16, Tombstone to Bisbee, 25 miles | Climb and Wind #ouch

Ride intel from Mike and Sue revealed a righteous climb into Bisbee. They weren’t wrong. 😅 Throw 17mph side and headwinds in and ya got yourself a showdown.

Seven mile climb with something to look at each pedal stroke. Not gonna complain. And the good thing is? There was smooth pavement, wide shoulders and we could blast down the other side.

Want to explain our precautions for riding on the road. This tour is a lot different than our off road tour on the Great Divide. Although we don’t have to sing jodies and recite states and capitals to scare the bears away, there can be traffic to contend with. By now you’ve noticed our bright vests and also our helmet mirrors that enable us to see approaching traffic.

The mirrors are helpful in that I can alert Tom (who rides in front) that there is an approaching vehicle. Many times I throw up my left hand and wave to let the motorist know I see them. Tom in turn, calls out road hazards (holes, debris, etc.) as he sees them.

Tom also rigged up a contraption for my seat bag that holds a flashing strobe light. We are selective about what we are willing to schlep across the country on bikes but this is a must.

On to Bisbee! It’s an old copper mining town in the Mule Mountains, and one of the most unique towns we’ve visited. Eclectic. Historic. Friendly. Artsy. Think of Jerome on steroids but in a good way.

Tom’s been taking care of making hotel/camping arrangements and navigation. I focus on weather, making vids and blogging. Tonight he selected Hotel LaMore which happens to be a favorite among paranormal enthusiasts. New owner John Michael (great name btw) is pumped to make this property a must-stay for Bisbee visitors. John Michael’s only owned the property for four months and has already created an unforgettable place to stay.

My favorite room is a sitting room where he’s hung unique Vietnamese lanterns. I just want to hang around the property to look at the relics and melding of early American history and the Chinese influence in this mining town.

If we had a do-over we may have pushed on to Douglass since it’s just 30 miles up the road, although it would have been unfortunate to miss Bisbee.

And it looks like there’s a 7:30am Mass at St. Patrick’s, located only a half mile away. So yay… we have time before we leave Bisbee.

Click on the image below to view more pics and vids and note that Tom has a new shirt on today! I, however, am still in the same shirt. Yes we wear the same clothes everyday. 😜

#SD2KW, Day 15, Sonoita to Tombstone, 44 miles | Tourists in Tombstone

We chose to cycle the longer way out of Senoita through the vineyards on low traffic, picturesque roads. Though the vineyards were dormant they still offered much to look at. The solitude was the perfect way to begin a day of riding.

Once past the vineyard we rolled through Elgin which happens to be a very popular place for movie filming. Check out all the movies here.

I’d have never know this for it not for our friend Garry, a fellow travel lover and adventurer. He has a blog I follow faithfully when he’s on tour.

Little wonder Elgin is chosen for movie sets. It’s lovely and our pics don’t do it justice.

Then we had one long, groovy decent. So. Much. Fun. Until the climb into Tombstone. 😂

Once we climbed into Tombstone we found The Sagebrush Inn and toured the town. Our last stop was Big Nose Kate’s where we met owner and Army Veteran Steve. He’s owned Kate’s for 47 years and explained there’s been a lot of changes in the town. As you can imagine he had a LOT of stories to share.

And he dressed us up for a once-in-a-lifetime photo opp.

Our days end pretty early while bike traveling so once our bellies were full we headed back to play some gin (Tom won) and lube the bike chains.

Climbing to Bisbee tomorrow and will hit about 6,000 feet. Another hotel room (not mad about it) as night temps are in the upper 20’s. 🥶

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#SD2KW, Day 14, Tucson to Sonoita, 48 miles | Scenic Sonoita