We’ve been on the road for three weeks now and have gone a little over 1,000 miles! Yay!
Our first full day in The Lone Star State started with getting out of El Paso. It took us over three hours but we were safe and got a good look at many parts of the city. It’s worth coming back to!
Beyond the city we began cycling through several pecan orchards, many of whom were topping trees and burning orchard debris. Talk about getting “smoked”! 😂
We tentatively targeted Ft. Hancock (with a motel but no hot food or coffee) as today’s destination or six miles beyond the tiny town of Esperanza (offers free tenting to cyclists and is a truck stop off I-10 with food and coffee). With favorable winds, we pushed the extra 25 or so miles on to the Traveling Tiger Truck Stop after Esperanza.
Early evening cycling is just about our fave time to ride. Not only does the end-of-day light cast spectacular shadows on the landscape it seems particularly peaceful.
As mentioned, we headed for the truck stop, knowing it was going to be a cold night of camping but knew hot food was available.
Friends, let me tell ya, we are just a block from I-10 (and about 2-3 miles from the border). Truckers drive all night long! The trucks didn’t stop. Lucky for us – were it not for them, how would our country stay so well supplied? Right? The ground was a little rocky but we stayed toasty warm even with temps in the low 30’s.
Last night we were in a Fairfield Inn by Marriott and tonight we rest in a tent at a truck stop sleeping in the clothes we rode over 80 miles in. It’s feast or famine on the journey. And if this doesn’t grow our comfort zone, I don’t know what will. 😊
Have a beautiful Thursday!
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It was hard to get out of our sleeping bags at 36 degrees as we were toasty warm in our hat and puffies but we knew we had a hotel stay coming up and that’s always motivation to get going.
Once out of the tent and packing up Bill and Karen from Idaho stopped by. They’re on their way to Mexico to #EscapeTheCold like us. We swapped bike trip bucket lists with them. We moved the Idaho Hot Springs ride up on our list and I’m pretty sure they will one day ride The Great Divide.🚵
We climbed some hills today amidst stunning scenery, getting up over 5,000 feet just pedaling along, not setting any speed records but making relentless progress forward and grateful for fair weather and attentive drivers.
Someone asked how much water we carry. Great question! Well it’s not hot out here but we are still sweating and need plenty of water. We each carry two, one liter bottles and a reserve pint on the bike frame (just because it fits there). We are using the same liter bottles we bought in San Diego – we just refill them everyday. #ReduceReuse#Recycle
We’re staying at the Senoita Inn tonight – really nice digs!
Not only is the Senoita Inn lovely, it’s historic, close to a steak house and brewery and the barrel racer (as in rodeo) is super nice and accommodating. Thanks, Morgan!
After quickly unpacking, doing laundry, and taking showers we walked to the local brewery, ‘cause we had some celebrating to do – two weeks on the road already!
On the way home the craziest thing happened. It was dark and we were walking on the opposite side of the road from a girl holding the reins of a saddled but riderless horse. She asked us if we were the rider or if we’d seen a rider.👀 Apparently there is a missing horseback rider somewhere in Senoita.
Thanks for following along! Your prayers, comments and messages mean a lot.😊
We left Picacho State Park all bundled up. It was chilly! But as the sun came out, the layers came off.
A seventeen mile ride on an I-10 frontage road kicked off our day with a relatively flat, little travelled road. As has been the case, there was a bit of headwind but it was less than 10mph.
Then we hit The Loop just outside of Tucson. It still amazes me that a cyclist can ride through a city on bike trails. Such is the case with Tucson. We visited here back in 2018 and knew we wanted to return. Little did we know it would be on our Cuttys on a cross country ride.
We stopped at a local brewery on the way to the campsite having put our 50 miles in early. Breweries are a great place to meet locals and learn more about the area.
But the real schooling came when we arrived to our campsite. Dang we’ve never seen anything like this KOA. Grapefruit, orange and lemon trees everywhere. Pick what you want and eat. They have a hot tub, pool, pickleball courts. There is a sink, small pavilion (with an electric light), picnic table, soft tent pad and fire pit at every tent site. It’s mostly for RVs but there a few tenters. Check out the vid for pics. Our needs are significantly less than this but it was so much fun to experience. And their service and hospitality were 💯
We met Mark who works at the KOA. He rode Southern Tier a couple years ago and signed up for the Stagecoach 400 in March. Go Mark!
After eating dinner (we were so hungry), Tom said “I don’t know if I’ve been any happier. I asked you mean ever in your life or on this trip?😂 Whodathunk? A restaurant in an RV park? The food was amazing!
On to more important things… apparently a second grade class at my alma mater St. Pius X Catholic School has been learning about our ride.😊 Josie wants to know what we do if it rains. 😊
Josie, think for a minute on your own about what we need. Then “turn and talk” to your neighbor (if it’s ok with Mrs. A and Mrs. W.) What did you come up with?
If it’s sprinkling we keep riding! If it starts to rain harder we put on a rain coat and waterproof gloves. If there is lightning we stop immediately and find shelter. Lastly we always make sure cars can see us in the rainy weather by wearing bright jackets and having our back bike lights on. So far we have been lucky and haven’t had any rain except at night when we aren’t riding. Have a happy day in school!
Lights out early for us as usual ‘cause guess what we get to do tomorrow? Ride bikes! 🚴🏼♂️🚴🏼♀️
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Besides taking in the football games in Coolidge we had another reason to ride a couple short days. We really wanted to visit Picacho (spanish for “peak”) Peak State Park. It was worth waiting for.
After a leisurely morning at the Grand Vista Motel we headed south toward Picacho. Heading out of town I kept noticing harvested cotton fields. Apparently that’s a huge cash crop for Coolidge. Who knew?
Every now and then we would just stop, take it all in and give thanks for everything, not just the sunshine but our faith, families, friends and each other.
Easy ride today that ended on a well paved frontage road next to I-10 with a stop at DQ and a quest for fresh fruit at the store next door. We didn’t find any apples but Jesse who rang us in for peanut M & Ms (‘cause they are like apples right?), threw in a free box of popcorn and said, “Keep making memories together.” Thanks Jesse… I strapped that to the front of my bike and we enjoyed it after our evening walk while watching the sun set.
Once at the state park we stopped in the Visitor Center, played with snakes and talked to a couple rangers about their wildlife cam and the park.
They were a bit surprised we’d be overnighting in a tent (getting down to 36 which means chilly pack up in the morning).🥶
If we’re ever back in the area we will stop here at Picacho State Park again. There’s a hike here that’s calling our name – and someone else we know. John, that’s a nod to you.🥾⛰️👀
Grateful for these trusty bikes as well! Salsa Cutthroats. 🌶️🚲🚵
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Today was an urban day as we made our way through Peoria, Glendale, Phoenix, Tempe, Mesa and to our destination, Apache Junction. Here’s a screenshot of Google maps from my phone to give you an idea of the intricacies of navigating through a cluster of towns and a major metropolitan area.
The Phoenix area has a remarkable network of extensive bike trails and bike lanes that provide bridges and underpasses for cyclists and pedestrians. Oh if only the Monon had these back in Indy.😌
We don’t use Google to find our way but instead use a Garmin device made for bikes on which digital maps are loaded that we purchase from Adventure Cycling Association. There are seven Southern Tier maps (plus one down the Atlantic Coast we are using to get to Key West). Today we finished our first map as we entered Arizona State University in Tempe.
In addition to the digital maps on our Garmin which gives us turn by turn directions, we also have the paper maps that offer options on camping, stores, restaurants, and well duh … there are maps.
I say all this because this afternoon when we finished our first Adventure Cycling map, we are totally going off route because of the frigid temps up north. Bummer we will miss Emory Pass and visiting Silver City again. Not a bummer to miss frigid temps and possible snow at higher elevations. So for the rest of Arizona and all of New Mexico we are sans map.
Fellow bike travelers Mike and Sue did the same in early 2019 on their Southern Tier tour and have shared their bike itinerary with us. Check out their blog – they have cycled the perimeter of the US and they bring their bring their ukuleles. How cool is that? Thanks Mike and Sue!
Our stellar ride today ended in a KOA with fun neighbors, Buster and Jolly and their dog mom Collette who is traveling in her VW Beetle.
She’s written a book about her journey entitled “Be That Person.”
Just based on the van she drives and her choice of doggos it’s probs worth the read.
Thanks for following along, and for the prayers and the encouraging words as we continue east in search of sun and warmth. Our legs and cardio get stronger each day!
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We were greeted with a lovely sunrise and rode through more agricultural areas. Thank you farmers! Once out of Blythe, we said goodbye to the Imperial Valley.
Today we made our first state line crossing when we crossed the Colorado River. It’s a tradition that we do a dance or jig to celebrate state lines. I think cartwheels might be fun some time but then again I might hurt myself.😂
At coffee this morning a local let us know the annual Rock, Gem and Mineral Festival was going on in Quartzsite. Apparently the Quartzsite area is a rockhound’s paradise and morphs into a giant RV rally/show. She also mentioned food trucks!
And oh… there are saguaro cacti now and the skies continue to be clear and blue.
We left I-10 and cruised into Quartzsite on a smooth downhill and upon reaching town, encountered a huge traffic backup, emergency vehicles and four entrance and exit ramps to and from I-10. If that wasn’t a big enough fiasco to navigate through on bikes (and just as we were thinking about food trucks) Tom realized his rear tire was flat.
We cycled off-road on the Great Divide over 2,600 miles without any flat tires and within the first week, we have a flat. The nail Tom’s tire picked up was so long it also punctured the tire sidewall so the tire wouldn’t seal.
Tom pulled the nail and plugged the hole and we limped into town for food. Since we weren’t sure if the tire fix would hold we looked for some tent space in town to spend the night.
Probs going to get a late start tomorrow as the tire will probably need a tube. Once we get to Tempe, Tom will get a new tire. It’s all part of bike travel. 😊
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Today was an unforgettable day of beauty, difficulty and teamwork. Uncle Tom and Aunt Debby let us know the road conditions from Brawley to Blythe. So we were prepared for lack of shoulder and dips which made for no line of site.
They also shared more about the Algodones Dunes (45 miles long and 6 miles wide) near the old train stop of Glamis. Not only will the dunes mesmerize you with their ever changing beauty, they are a heap of off road fun!
What we weren’t prepared for is the relentless strong headwinds. All. Day. Long.
The blowing sand was everywhere and I felt like I was eating a sand sandwich. 😂
Later when the wind picked up and the line of sight diminished due to dips in the road and no shoulder, I wondered if we should just throw down off the road somewhere and put up the tent to get some relief but Tom thought we could get through it. And since he pulled all day, least I could do was follow if he was willing to lead.
If ever the road shifted and it wasn’t a direct wind, at times it was difficult to keep the bike upright with the side wind.
We stopped short of Blythe due to daylight and well… we were tired and hungry. After snagging a cozy site aside the Colorado River, we put up the tent, locked bikes, changed clothes and ate our breakfast burritos for dinner.
What a day to remember! And what an excellent training day! 💨🚴🏼♂️🚴🏼♀️
Thanks for the send off, Cali! Tomorrow we cross the Arizona state line!
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More of the same today with regard to sun, bluebird skies and climb but dang it’s like we’re in Bicycle Bootcamp with the headwind. It was cold and relentless most of the day – so much so, we didn’t make it to our planned stop.
We woke up very cold despite sleeping in our puffy coats and other cold weather clothing but the rain the night before made everything wet and damp (and colder).🥶
Remember Dahlia mentioning the aggressive male turkey when we checked in?
Well guess who showed up for breakfast and then chased us out of the campsite because we had no turkey kibble for him and his lady friend.
Because of the rain last night Tom had to pack up the tent soaking wet which made for very cold hands and a heavier load. We dried it out for a while but were anxious to get back down to reasonable elevation so it would be warmer to camp tonight. Remember that we are on an “Escape the Cold” bike tour.
Early in the day the route took us on the Interstate, or Freeway as they call it out here.
Once off I-8 we began a series of ups and downs and the headwind amped up. We road even less distance today but with more elevation. Tom was doing great waiting for me when I dropped back but my stamina was diminishing. We were running out of light again, and determined we wouldn’t make the next 18 miles down hill to camp in warmer temps before the sun dropped behind the mountains. So we splurged on a small local motel.
Lots of reasons to smile today though! Mid day Tom found the perfect place to make lunch, water down and take a bio break.
And we did make it up and over the Tecate Divide.
Tomorrow we WILL get off this bump!
And we will get a more substantial dinner. 😂
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We are on our way and what a day it was! After riding four miles to the official start line we tapped our tires in the Pacific Ocean, ready to ride east.
Since this could also be called the “Escape the cold weather and gray skies in Indy” tour, you could say today we got what we came for. Blue skies and bike shorts.
It was most all uphill today and we have little training so we’re taking it super easy. The way my legs felt after riding just over 40 miles with some respectable elevation helped me appreciate all the training rides we did to prepare for other bike tours. Training matters! We figure in 1-2 weeks of riding everyday we should be good to go.
The bike ride out out of San Diego went smoothly and at the beginning it was mostly bike paths along the San Diego River. There was quite a bit of traffic in some areas but the bike lanes are well developed and cars appear to be used to sharing the road with cyclists.
One of our fave parts of the route today (besides pizza at Mike Hess Brewery and getting to the campsite) was riding through Mission Trails Regional Park on the Brother Junipero Serra Trail. It. Was. Spectacular.
We found a brewery/restaurant just five miles from our campground with amazing food and tasty bevvies. Even scored some carry out pizza.
And oh… we were told we wouldn’t encounter any bears on the ride yet here we are. I’m thinking this would work in our yard by our garden as a chipmunk deterrent.
It gets dark here super early and when the sun goes down it’s cold. We were in our tents by 5:45pm.
We knew there was rain in the forecast tonight and lows in the mid 30’s but when Dahlia checked us in she said to be careful. There’s an aggressive male turkey roaming about. That’s certainly a first for us. 🦃😂
Given we start our ride with a 13 mile climb, we’re really looking forward to that sweet descent toward the Imperial Valley.
We are camping on the beautiful lands owned by the Sovereign Nation of the Viejas Band of Kumeyaay Indians. This proverb spoke to us.
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As part of our Middle West Meander we headed south to the Flint Hills in Kansas. Although we mapped out a solid bikepacking route that would begin in Emporia and dip into parts of the Flint Hills Nature Trail and Prairie Spirit Trail and return to Emporia at the end of the day we opted out of bikepacking. Why?
Kansas was exceptionally hot the week before (highs in the low 100’s) and we thought it might be fun to do some loop riding instead of out and back rides since that’s what we just did on the Mickelson and Cowboy Trails.
So pivot we did to a car camping and cycling tour of the Flint Hills. Car camping opens up a LOT of options like finding drop-in pickleball games when it rains (we brought our paddles), seeing a movie, attending Mass, visiting local museums, and choosing restaurants and breweries based on preference instead of proximity.
We felt right at home in the town of Emporia. Did you know it is the founding city for Veterans Day? 🇺🇸 And it’s known for its robust glassblowing and engraving communities. Emporia is also considered the disc golf capital of the world and the main attraction for us? Her gravel roads. There is a cycling event held each year called Unbound Gravel and although we don’t race gravel bikes, we sure love to ride them. So we figured we’d download a couple of the routes from the Unbound event website.
Our plan worked well! There are SO many world class gravel roads to ride around Emporia it’s worth a return trip for us. Not to mention Radius Brewing. Their beer and scotch eggs are👌🏻
After a couple days in Emporia we moved on to towns along the Flint Hills Nature Trail including Osage City and Ottawa. I mean, we had a car so easy peasy.
As it turned out, it wasn’t the heat that was oppressive in Kansas. Instead we brought the farmers some much needed RAIN! And rain it did. Although it puts a crimp in riding at times, we were happy to oblige. ‘Cause like I said, when ya have your car, ya have lots of options.
By the end of our fling with the Flint Hills we’d ridden loops out of Emporia and Ottawa and long segments of the Flint Hills Nature Trail and Prairie Spirit Trail.
The last stop on our Middle West Meander was Stillwater, OK where the Mid South Gravel race is held each year. Again we snagged a 55 mile route from the event website to get our ride in for Oklahoma. The ride was a good mix of gravel, some red mud and even some swampy muck.
Our three week Middle West Meander couldn’t have gone any better. Plus on the way home we get to rendezvous with pickleball friends we met last March in Costa Rica and take in a Cardinals game in St. Louis.
Not gonna lie though… it’s not all rainbows and unicorns all the time. I have more skeeter bites on my body than I can count. Yesterday I drilled Tom in the face with my PB paddle because we both went for the same ball #ouch
And my sleeping pad popped a hole somewhere in New Mexico last summer and I forgot to replace/repair it before our ride so I had to blow it up again in the middle of the night every night 😂 And finally, the flies in cattle country. Dayum. I’ve never seen so many flies… they land on everything! Like my food- after they sit on 🐄 💩 All this and more comes with the territory and makes the easy days that much easier.
We’ve met some fellow bike travelers the past few weeks, most of them cycling across the country. It’s going to be a lot of fun keeping up with them when we get home. Pedal on friends, Mike and Steve aka the Ready Riders, Steve and Sissel from the UK, and Mike and Sue who are finishing up their last leg of pedaling the perimeter of the lower 48 states.
As for us, we have a couple of big bike tours in the hopper and we might try to squeeze in a five state bike tour of the North East before it’s time to start raking leaves in Indy.
Thanks so much for the follow everyone! 😊
Click on the image below for more pics and videos of our visit to the Flint Hills.
Keep Calm and Pedal On 