We packed up at Watchman Campground in less than 20 minutes and hit the road early anxious to beat the intense heat that was forecasted.
Our Valley of Fire State Park cruise brings our Tour de N’Utah to an end and sets us up for our 50th state in 2024: Oregon
Valley of Fire was Nevada’s first state park, dedicated on Easter Sunday in 1934 and boasts 40,000 acres of bright red Aztec sandstone with unique rock formations. It’s believed that nearly 11,000 years ago this part of Nevada was home to early man as evidenced by petroglyphs and artifacts.
Much later as part of Roosevelt’s Civilization Conservation Corps (CCC), cabins were built and remnants can still be visited today.
Whether hiking, biking or traveling by car the views from Golden, CO, through Bryce Canyon, Grand Staircase Escalante, Zion National Park, Scenic Byway 12 in Utah and Red Rock Canyon are indescribable. Utah most certainly has moved up the list as one of our favorite outdoor destinations.
After Nevada we head back to Utah and then after much anticipated proper showers, a resupply and Mass at Christ the King in Cedar City, we are headed home.
So long friends and thanks so much for the follow!
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Just a 30 mile gravel ride today that started about an hour outside of the national park on and around Gooseberry Mesa.
We found the route on the Gravel Bike Race website that hosts an annual gravel race, downloaded the gpx file and just went with it. There was some technical riding on one end with open canyon country on the other and both were 🤙🏻
Ya never know what you’re going to get. The directions said turn left on Main Street but Main Street was nothing but a dirt road. 🤣
The ride did NOT disappoint and we had a little bit of everything as far as road surface; gravel, baby head rocks, small boulders, ruts, deep sand, lots of washboard and mucho cattle guards. As usual the afternoon thunderboomers kept us at the ready.
There were views of Zion National Park and Kolob Canyon and the second half took us through cowboy country and some of the best canyon scenery at 12 mph.
We rode south towards the Arizona border and then made our way back to the car.
For dinner it was back to Zion Canyon Brewery because I mean why end a good thing? The food has been tasty, service 💯 and we sit right by the Virgin River each night recapping our day, planning for the next and estimating how old the ancient Cottonwood trees are along the river.
We got a 20% “locals discount” since we’re basically regulars now this being our third night in a row.🫣
Tomorrow we head to Nevada for our 49th state with a bike cruise through Valley of Fire State Park and our first proper showers in a week!
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The title of this blog post Hike AND Bike is not to be confused with HAB (Hike A Bike) which we have experienced on Fleecer Ridge, Lava Mountain, et al on the Great Divide.
We started the day out in the rain but ended it in the sunshine and put in a 40 mile bike ride and a little under 6 miles of hiking.
Soon after the rain the skies gave way to sun and we were on our way to hike. Having our bikes with us means we don’t have to ride the shuttle. We just cycle to the trail head.
And meet Tina the tarantula. She’d just crossed the trail before us. About the size of my fist and cuddly as a golden doodle we decided to leave her be but not before snapping her pic.
The day ended at our fave place, the Zion Canyon Brewery for cheers and beers and deciding what the next day might bring.
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After breaking camp and having our last chat with Roy we were on our way to Zion National Park, however not before a quick coffee stop to check weather and schedule stays after Zion. Valley of Fire State Park is forecasted to be 100 degrees on Friday. 🔥 Ouch!
Between our bike ride and drive on Scenic Byway 12 yesterday, through Red Rock Canyon today and then entering Zion through the east gate on Highway 89, we were shocked at the views around every corner.
And then a small herd of big horn sheep decided to come out and say hello.
The Hebrew origin of the word Zion means “highest point”. Go figure. It’s majestic, massive, vibrant and awe-inspiring here.
I remember Checkerboard Mesa from my last visit. It’s aptly named wouldn’t you agree?
We are camping in Watchman’s Campground, its namesake, and just under it’s towering influence.
And lucky for us… look what’s located a half mile away.
Cars are still not permitted on the main road so as cyclists we have the whole road to ourselves in the park (well besides the shuttle buses).
Although different from Bryce Canyon and Grand Staircase Escalante, Zion National Park is equally breathtakingly beautiful and we can’t wait to make the most out of our brief two days here.
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We’d picked out a stellar 54 mile bike ride on one of Americas Scenic Byways and even though the climb was a little over the top (4,600) at this elevation, the route is paved and there would be lots of cool scenery to distract us from our misery. 😂
There were some righteous downhills at 14% but since it was an out and Bach we knew whatever we road down we had to climb back up. 😂
It all started out great until the storm front (again, not forecasted) moved in.
We pressed on thinking we’d skirt around it, however a little after the half way point a wicked canyon wind kicked up, more clouds moved in and we decided it best to turn around. 😏
Strong one directional sustained winds are one thing but strong winds that circulate are more difficult to handle on a bike, in the rain especially when zipping down canyon roads at 25 miles an hour with no guard rail. And oh yea it was Sunday which meant we were sharing the road with mucho RVs broke camp this morning.
Not to be robbed of seeing the scenery we wanted to see, when we got back to our car we drove the route (in the rain) and finished an audio book. Soooo there ya go. Life is seldom what you expect but it IS what you make it.
Tonight is our fourth and last night at Ranchito Feliz, a Hipcamp where Roy is our host. Roy owns nine acres in Cannonville, UT (just outside Bryce Canyon). He was one of the first to jump on board the Hipcamp idea and is among one of their top hosts.
The way Hipcamp came to be is fascinating. For a quick story click here but if you don’t have time to read it just know that needs drive business and this female founder rocked it.
The best part of this Hipcamp stay, however was Roy, a San Diego native, and former marine who knows more about the natural history of the area, the customs and people than I have space to share here. Besides his stories are his to share and only he can tell them the best. Sooo if you’re ever in Southern Utah and have a mind to camp, look up Roy at the Ranchito Feliz.
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As we drank our coffee and prepared breakfast, we thought we had our day all planned.
Then… a message arrived from Roy, our Hipcamp host “Hey! Want to go on a short gravel ride me with me and the dogs?” “Sure!” we responded. ‘Cause you don’t say no to the locals who are a treasure trove of stories, advice and local lore.
So off we went riding with Roy, G-Mo and Lozen, his puppers.
Before we knew it, after chatting it up with Roy on our ride, plans for the day changed.
Off to Willis Creek for a hike in a slot canyon.
Roy let us know once we reached “The Wall” if we made a right and hiked up we’d find petroglyphs so that was our destination for the hike.
The hike out had us hopping over Willis Creek that was barely a trickle through the slot canyon. We marveled at the smooth canyon walls and the power that wind and water have to change rock.
Just as Roy promised, and thanks to Tom paying attention (because I wasn’t), we found the petroglyphs and they did not disappoint.
There was a mural of etchings that appeared to be a map. Would have loved to know what the ancients were communicating.
We stopped for a trailside snack, got up and began our hike back. That’s when we heard the thunder, looked up and saw the weather was turning. Rain was coming. Most everyone knows the worst place to be when rain comes is in a slot canyon.
We got up, got our hustle on and headed back. Rain started; thunder continued (none of this was in the forecast). And soon after the water flow through the canyon increased. We didn’t think the rain would last long locally but we were thinking if rain fell up ahead of us we would be “up 💩creek” .
As it was, the rain didn’t last long however our feet got a little wet – no worries there. What WAS the problem, however, was getting back down to the main road in our 2015 Subaru on the ratchet road we drove up on. It was a dirt (now mud) road with three creek crossings and some very steep grades and drop offs.
Prayers, low gears and me holding the passenger side door on 😂 got us down safely but not without a lot of slipping and sliding. Tom said it was the most white knuckled drive he’s ever experienced. I wanted to take a video but then thought I better not.
After the morning ride and afternoon hike (and subsequent mud debacle) we decided to jump on our bikes one more time. Folks, there isn’t a bad view in southwest Utah.
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And thanks to my good bud Christie for the song suggestion today. Soooo good!
Who do we think we are heading back out for more bike adventures when we’ve already finished San Diego to Key West and The Northeast Scramble earlier this year?
I’ll tell ya. We are “Mr. and Mrs. Ready to Complete our 50 State Chase” and finish riding our bikes in all 50 states. The Tour De N’Utah will give us states number 48 and 49.
The hardest part of this trip (since we drove here and have our car and that makes most everything easy) is keeping up with some of our favorite fellow adventurers who are also out on tour. Mike and Sue have ridden their bikes around the perimeter of the US and are now on EuroVelo 6 riding across Europe from the Atlantic to the Black Sea.
We share a love of the west with Garry who is On The Road Again headed west for a backpack trip to floor of the Grand Canyon and back yet finds every opportunity to explore sites along the way (that I’ve bet you’ve never heard of but wish you had) and listen to some of the most intriguing stories from folks along the way.
Finally Deacon Matt and his buds are on yet another do-si-do with the GAP and C&O trails. If you’re an armchair adventurer, these folks offer ample opportunity!
Between reading their blogs, rinsing my bike shorts and boiling water for Mountain House meals I’m pretty busy over here.😂
So four nights near Bryce Canyon, three in Zion National Park and then on to Nevada’s Valley of Fire State Park. By the way Nevada puts the “N” in N’Utah hence the Tour De N’Utah.
Currently we are camping at a Hipcamp (more on this later) where we get a nightly show of the setting sun when it retires for the day beneath the ridge behind us. The colors on the rocks across from our campsite are remarkable to watch so we position our camp chairs for the evening show.
This form of natural entertainment precedes the one the stars provide at night. Like Marfa, TX where we bicycled through last February, this area is also know for its dark skies and optimal opportunities to star gaze.
By day the pinnacles of weathered rocks called hoodoos keep us ooohing and awwwing as we cycle or hike paste them. The beauty of this place cannot be described in pictures or words. If ever you get the chance, visit southern Utah, you must!
So “hoodoo” we think we are? Just old grandma and grandpa over here trying to catch our breaths at this elevation as we cycle up hills and live outdoors relishing in its beauty and the kindness of others.
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Keep Calm and Pedal On 