#acaNoTier Joplin to Chinook, 74 Miles | Spandex in Montana

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Early on in the day we caught up with fellow thru-biker, Melissa. She stopped at the city park two towns east of us. We saw her bike outside and stopped in to say “hi”.

Lucky us… they served up the best cinnamon rolls and coffee.

We’re hoping to see Melissa again as we leap frog eastbound along the Northern Tier.

We also did a little grocery shopping at the Walmart in Havre. Opposite of how we shop at home, most of our groceries came from the middle aisles whereas when shopping at home it’s all from the perimeter although we still managed a few fruits and veggies. And it was seasoned black beans and brown rice for dinner with carrots and bread. Yum!

Now about that spandex…

Ummm there aren’t a lot of men we have run into that wear spandex in small town taverns in Montana.

Ya gotta love a man who wears bike shorts and feels comfortable enough in his skin to lean his bike against a building on Main Street in Chinook, Montana, and order a beer in the local tavern.

Such was the case tonight when we rolled into town thinking we would dodge a thunderstorm before setting up our tent in the city park.

Gotta admit, it was a little tense when we entered, Tom in spandex, most others in cowboy hats and jeans. Many of our friends, family and followers know the feeling, even if you don’t wear spandex in Montana. Yep we may have even overheard a couple comments.

Can’t blame folks. Sometimes cyclists can be a pain in the arse on the road. And then there’s the bike shorts thing.

We get it.

Two sisters saw us riding into town and either out of kindness (or maybe pity, lol) walked over to give us a couple of free pint tokens.

Then a gentleman named Greg who Tom spoke to outdoors when checking on the weather shared with us that he was a veteran and served in the Vietnam War. Soon after, he and his wife Mary came over to chat.

We shared more about Back on My Feet and its mission and they had so many questions about BoMF and the bike ride. Greg wanted to donate on the spot!

Instead we asked for his prayers for a safe journey, wide shoulders on the side of the road and alert drivers.

Long neck Buds started appearing on our table as folks warmed up to us. It ended with us reciprocating and a buying a round for all before we left to set up camp.

The point is… look for the good and assume the best in people. Put love where there is no love, and then there will be love. What if we would have turned around and walked out?

And it sure doesn’t hurt for two sweet sisters to get the ball rolling.

#acaNoTier Avalanche to Babb via Logan Pass, 40 Miles | Logan Strong

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Today took us up and OVER Logan Pass on Going to the Sun Road. In the most fortunate series of events our friends Karl and Finn gave us a ride to Avalanche (the point at which cars are not permitted to travel up the pass).

As you may recall we rode toward Logan Pass as far as we could to the Loop a couple days ago on a rainy, cold day.

Just yesterday because we chose to ride toward Polebridge we learned the Pass was open to cyclists all the way and were encouraged to make the trek.

It was an unforgettable ride that despite some clouds went remarkably well.

Sometimes the things you think are going to be the hardest to do, don’t end up that way. That’s the way it was for us. #noprobs

Tom and I stayed close together all the way up. And we were awed by the incredible views.

Thanks to Karl and Finn for shuttling us up over roads we already covered.

We were unable to get pics or vids of a herd of big horn sheep on the way down the pass. Seeing them was also a high point.

Tonight we are camping in Babb, MT and wouldn’t you know it, we met another neighbor, Geoff, who is here for a Sprinter rally. What a fun guy to chat with. He gave us a deluxe tour of his Sprinter. Might be a home on the road for us someday after bicycle touring! Who knows?

 

#acaNoTier Glacier National Park, 24 Miles | The Sound of Sunshine

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Thanks to Tom doing his sundance jig first thing today the sun was shining all day long and we enjoyed a spectacular day. Thanks Montana! Thanks Tom!

Our friends Karl and Barb Meyer stopped by this morning to firm up our rendezvous in Hungry Horse tomorrow when Finn Dog gets here. THESE peeps are true outdoor folk and could be river or equestrian guides at any outfitter. Can’t wait to hear more of their stories tomorrow night when Finn get here.

First stop was the post office to see if our package arrived and indeed it did. Front panniers, warm gloves and a care package (daughter to parents instead of the other way around). Thanks Anne, Gordon and John! We especially love the chocolate covered Oreos.

Once the bags were on, we pit stopped for some more coffee, bagels, oatmeal and peanut butter. #biketravelstaples

Then off to ride toward Polebridge. We’ve been there before by car and knew we wouldn’t make it all the way since the last 14 miles are gravel. Nevertheless we opted for a short ride with a few hills to keep us honest.

Oh and we got a “pass”. Logan Pass that is. It is OPEN to thru bikers. So up and over we will go on Sunday, weather permitting to Canada.

We picnicked by Lake McDonald planned our border crossing then went back to our campsite to get organized to leave tomorrow for Hungry Horse and make dinner.

We will return to GNP on Sunday to hit Logan Pass.

And BTW we just heard the weather forecast for tomorrow. Another sundance is needed. 🤣

#acaNoTier Glacier National Park, 52 Miles | Chasing the Sun

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Cell and WiFi service is sketchy up here in Glacier, nevertheless we are blogging on.

It got chilly last night but we slept like babies, although we didn’t cry like babies when Tom gave the tires a feel and discovered a rear flat. I cooked some breakfast while he quickly changed it.

In short order we tooled around West Glacier looking for WiFi and scouted out the Belton Chalet tap room to meet our Indy friends on Saturday.

Logan Pass is still closed to through traffic but cars can go to Avalanche and bike traffic up to the loop. Now THAT was amazing! A route to nearly the top with no car traffic! Naturally we cycled as far as we could and got a little over 50 miles in but again it was cold, rainy and foggy. #weeping

Montana you are a fickle friend but we still love you. All day long we have been chasing the sun.

We met Jay today, a 24 four year old bike traveler with such good energy and knowledge to share (thanks for the Airdrop tip, Jay!)

Although a convo about his route and bike set up started the evening we finished it up at the campsite sharing some popcorn, a couple Shandys and hearing all about his family, girlfriend, Ellie, and future plans. He’s camping at the site next to us and will also lay up a day to do some exploring in GNP.

As we neared our campsite after the day’s riding we stopped in and snagged some food, bevvies and two warm huckleberry cobblers with a scoop of ice cream. Can’t forget the ice cream.

We decided then and there to ride the pass again tomorrow if it’s a sunny day, just for the “sun” of it!

We will see what tomorrow brings. 😊

#acaNoTier Whitefish to West Glacier, 33 miles | In the Mood for Some GNP

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Today we had just a short ride to West Glacier where we will spend the next four nights camping in Glacier National Park.

The campsite is sweet! Lots of privacy, trees, bear box available and close to a bike path that leads to the Visitor Center and Village (good for charging devices but unfortunately poor cell and WiFi connection).

Apgar Campground has a limited number of sites for biker/hikers and we were able to snag one. They are $5 a person a night and not crowded at all since it’s early in the season. Super inexpensive!

Shooting for riding up Logan Pass tomorrow!

We ran into Melissa again today a NT thru biker from Seattle. She’d stopped to talk to Kiki another solo female cyclist who has already put in over 3,000 miles. Amazing, right?

And… Tom took his turn cooking tonight. It was marvelous!

#acaNoTier Libby to Eureka, 69 miles | Now Montana… Be Nice

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The day started like this…

And ended like this.

After another day of riding in cold rain, western Montana decided to throw in some high winds and much more elevation today.

The wind actually pushed us UP a couple of climbs which was fortunate but the way it changes direction in the mountains without notice is not something these Hoosiers are used to.

With four layers on, our bodies were staying pretty warm but our fingers and toes were numb. Also shelter wasn’t available. There is no way we could stop because without the body heat the peddling generated we’d get even colder. If there is such a thing as a hot mess in the cold, rainy conditions that would be me. lol (Not Tom)

Keeping the bikes between the rumble strips and the pavement edge with impaired vision due to wet eye glasses was another challenge.

After the rain ended the wind increased even more. We found a sheltered area to fire up the stove to make some hot tea, have lunch and the sun came out. For a minute.

As we approached Eureka there was rain surrounding us but not on us. The moment we crested the rise to turn right into town and find our camping spot for the night a rain/snow squall popped up and we dashed onto a parking lot which coincidentally was a motel also hosting riders in this wicked crazy event: self supported bike packers racing along the continental divide, Canada to Mexico. Yep we quickly booked a room and ended our day of cycling.

Critter sitings included another osprey, some deer and a fox that showed up when it started pouring, cute little guy.

All is well in western Montana but I sure wish she’d start playing nice.

Heading to Whitefish tomorrow and a day of rest. Yay!

#acaNoTier Riverside to Republic, 60 miles | Something Old, Something New

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Another day, another Washington mountain pass. Same old.

But!

We experienced something new today! Before I give the deets on that let’s talk about the cougar old Wiley talked about at the Wauconda post office near the top of the pass. Wiley is a local who was mending his fence and I think might have been looking for a legit reason to take a break for a while.

Hence the post office visit where he found us. We’d stopped in for something to drink before the last three (and steepest) miles to the top of the pass. As luck would have it, Tom walked out with two La Croix. That happens to be our fave and about all they had in there at the remote USPS office. #trailmagic

Much in the same way I loiter before tackling a pass, Wiley was more than happy to share all he knew about cougars, moose, elk, bears and golden eagles in the area. (That’s right, Gordon, golden eagles). Smiley Wiley was super friendly but I was curious about his motives. lol

He said one way to befriend the locals is to wave at all the cars that go by while cycling. Wiley, I gotta agree with you, it’s a nice gesture when I’m not clenching the brakes to keep my bike under 30 mph going down or charging up the pass going 3 mph and can hardly keep my loaded bike upright.

Tom’s got that hand a-goin’ all day long and when Wiley passed us later on, we were on a flat and I managed a hearty wave. Fortunately no cougars or other predators were spotted the rest of the day. They were only imagined… by me.

Right out of the gate we had headwinds as we road to Tonasket for breakfast. Check out the flag in the vid.

As also seen in the vids, the weather has been stellar – the scenery, so much better than pics could show (unless Becky Andrade or Anna Kirkpatrick were taking them.)

Back to the something new. We decided it might be different to try out Warm Showers.

Warm Showers is a community of like minded folk who host bike travelers and offer a bed, place to camp, a meal, whatever. Since we got the camping challenge going we decided we’d camp.

I gotta tell you. These folk are super friendly and accommodating. We took Patty’s recommendation on the best local spot for beer and pizza, so we passed on dinner but took them up on the warm shower. And then there was that massage chair Tom used. Seriously, when will we ever have that luxury again?

Looks like we might not even have to fire up the camp stove in the morning because Patty mentioned something about coffee and a coffee cake on the counter in the morning. Yes please!

Warm Showers. That and so much more.

PS: We woke up to this note and treat for breakfast. The huckleberry coffee cake Patty made was the BEST!

#acaNoTier Winthrop to Riverside, 64 miles | Loup Loup

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Good news is… we turned the right direction out of the Bicycle Barn Camping place!

Another day, another mountain pass. Loup Loup Pass isn’t as high as Washington but there are no downhills or plateaus to rest the legs. It’s pretty much just one LONG climb. Another stunningly beautiful day of riding with the sun, the Methow and Okanogan Rivers and we moved into some very different topography.

Highlights of the day:

  • Coming out of camp we had the sweetest tailwind and downhill a cyclist could ever have. Just the way you want to start a ride.
  • Touring through the cowboy town of Winthrop.
  • Well now let’s just say second breakfast was stellar. Breakfast sammies and quiche, coffee and protein smoothies with kale and spinach and all good stuff.
  • Hitting the top of a mountain pass is always a high point. Literally. Lol. The other side was wicked awesome. Not as scary as yesterday. I still pumped my brakes but Tombo topped out at a comfortable 36 mph.
  • If you’re going to have another flat tire it’s always nice after lunch and in a Washington apple orchard. Got it fixed quickly and we were on our way.
  • Lunch! Food is becoming something we talk about. A lot. Bacon, spinach and tomato wraps today at a mom and pop organic shop.
  • And finally at one point we stopped our bikes, held up our arms in awe at doing something we always talked about doing.

Not everyday will be as good as this one. But we will take whatever comes and with gratitude.

Quick PSA… you can send in prayer requests at any time by clicking on Contact at the top right. They are confidential and prayed for every day at the beginning of our ride.

#acaNoTier Colonial Creek to Winthrop, 70 miles | Pumping Blood

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As you can see we made it! Praise God for strong hearts and lungs. #pumpingblood

6,500 feet of climbing on an overcast day. Tom was a rock star; it was physically challenging for me to climb that long and terrifying to come down the pass. My hands are numb from clenching the brakes. But we finished seven miles short of our destination for bevvies and food and all is well.

My gosh the views were spectacular today! And I can’t believe it’s only day three. The days are running together; we are forgetting what day of the week it is.

The Barn Bicycle Campground where we are tenting tonight might be the best camp ground yet. Solar outdoor showers, electric outlets available and compost outhouse. Even tops the frigid lake bath yesterday!

We leapfrogged on SR 20 through the Northern Cascades with Serena today, a fellow bike traveler. Thanks for taking our pic at the top of the pass Serena!

Serena also played a critical role in our bike travels today. On our first big mountain climb and longest cycling day so far we turned the wrong way on SR 20 and backtracked seven miles. Yep! My nickname should be “wrong-way Wright”.

In our delirium to find an open tent space yesterday we forgot that we crossed the street when we entered the campground. It wasn’t until we saw Serena at Gorge Creek that we thought that looks mighty familiar. We just had to laugh at ourselves and thought: 1) we won’t make that mistake again and 2) we will always get the best laugh out of cycling seven miles of rollers on SR 20 three times.

Here’s what’s on deck for tomorrow’s ride. Check out Loup Loup Pass.

Click on the image below for a recap vid of today.

 

#acaNoTier Rockport to Diablo, 39 miles | A “No Flat” Day

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Good news is… it was a no flat day. All tires held air! It was also a day when we started to see some serious rollers. #ouch

Although the National Parks guy said there were no tent spaces at Colonial Creek Campground at Diablo we decided to press on and chance it. So glad we did because it’s another stellar campsite with ginormous pines, a roaring stream nearby and plenty big campsites. Flushers too!

No shower? #noproblem

We both jumped in Diablo Lake with clothes on to do laundry and bathe simultaneously. Soap and shampoo are overrated. Just gotta rinse off really well. #ecofriendly However, deodorant and dental floss are non-negotiable.

I missed the chance to capture Tom in a standing-in-the-water dive (which he did TWICE). But he did it! And he went in first. The water was frigid cold but nothing makes you feel cleaner than cold water.

How was the cycling? Compared to tomorrow’s climbs, nothing too serious. But compared to our flat training rides in Indiana? Let’s just say the second half of the day was a “no flat” day. But again, we were awed by the steep rock faces, mountain views and our comrade that ran swiftly along side us all day, the Skagit River.

We missed Vic and Becky today. Vic wanted to ride the pass today and we ended up leaving an hour earlier so we somehow missed them. And there’s no cell service up here.

However when we rolled into the campground we found this note on the message board. He found a replacement tube for my tire and, with the tiniest safety pin I think I have ever seen, was able to pin the tube box and this note to the board. Faith and trust indeed, Vic. #trailangel

Not sure if we will see you two again in Washington but don’t forget we are Warm Shower hosts in Indy the next time you roll through town. And we always have a bed and meal for you two!

Another karma moment was when we saw the exact place at Gorge Creek where we saw the Northern Tier cyclists a couple years ago and decided then and there to bucket list this bike trip.

Not gonna lie. I’m a little freaked out with the two mountain passes tomorrow: Rainy and Washington. But ya know ya just gotta keep calm… and pedal on. One mile at a time.

Plus there is always second breakfast to look forward to. But that won’t be until after lunch because there isn’t any cell service or food for the next 50+ miles.

Gonna be an adventure no doubt.