#acaNoTier Midland to Otter Lake, 65 Miles | Cycleways and Shortcuts

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As many of our friends, followers and family members know, we are all about cycleways (aka rail trails, bike paths, etc.) and shortcuts. Today we had both!

The Midland mishap where we were late getting in and were off course actually put us ahead a couple miles for today’s ride to Otter Lake.

The Bay City Loop was scenic and a nice change of pace from the route and then right outside Frankenmuth a man stopped us on the road asking a few questions about the ride and offered us an option to cut some miles while taking an even better route. Thanks Bill!

When we rolled into Frankenmuth we were a bit hangry, not with each other but the situation. We needed food, fast. We nearly settled for a cheese curd food truck but instead landed in a real restaurant where we had the BEST BIG salads. And then there was the German Chocolate Shop in the level below.

When we got to the campground, Sue asked us a few questions about where we were from and the bike trip and she said, “Today camping for cyclists is free. There is a shower, water, electric and I have a space for you near a tree so you will have plenty of shade.” Today I am calling her “Saint Sue.”

Tomorrow night will likely be our last night in Michigan and then we head to Canada for a few days.

Thanks so much for all the comments on FB, Twitter, the blog and the emails. We read every single one. 😊

Looks like we have headwinds and rain tomorrow and Saturday. It’s been a great few days of weather while it lasted.

#acaNoTier LeRoy to Midland, 83 Miles | Midland Mishaps

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Our day began early, about 2:30am tending to three uninvited guests to the campsite. The well fed raccoons paid us a visit and as Tom was shooing them away I was safely tucked in the tent Googling the best way to keep them from coming back. I so appreciate my iPhone and cell service.

It was a lovely night to sleep outdoors with owls singing lullabies most of the night. We are getting so spoiled. And the raccoons decided to visit another site so we were well rested.

Up and at ’em early we rolled out of the campsite about 8am and were on our way to (of all places) Temple, MI where we planned on a possible second breakfast. Right in the middle of prayers I picked up a metal staple that flattened my rear tire and yes, Vic it’s most always the rear tire. With Tom well ahead I got started fixing it.

Tom returned, got the tire and tube on the rim and back on the bike. Soon three “helpers” showed up, Harvey, Frankie and Steve – their pic is in the vid.

From then on the rest of the day went smoothly, well until the end of the day.

At Lake George we got to talking to a retired US Marshall who worked as a part time patrolman in this small and remote Michigan town to “get away” from it all.

His first day as a patrolman was on Christmas Day years ago. (You can tell he loves to tell this story) He pulled a car over with two elderly men in front and two ladies in back.

The driver had run six stop signs. When the patrolman asked the driver if he knew what he was being pulled over for, the elderly man in the back seat took his teeth out, turned to his wife and said “hold these. I’m going to kick his a$$.” His wife turned to the would be assaulter, hits him with her purse and told him to stay put. The driver was let off with a warning and no arrests were made.

As far as where to stay in Midland we’d reached out to a Warm Shower host but without hearing back from them and no camping options we were stuck getting a hotel. #notcomplaining

We cued up Google Maps to find one and it led us on a wild goose chase. What’s more is that when we finally located it, there were signs in many of the windows saying the rooms were condemned. We’d even called ahead and were told to come on by because they had two rooms left.

Ummm just no. Not doing rooms next door to condemned rooms because well… bugs fly. By this time it was after 8pm (we’d stopped for dinner) and all we wanted to do was get out of bike shorts and get settled in.

After touring the better parts of Midland and some not so good we found a room at the Best Western that also offered a breakfast (with unlimited Nutella). #sold

Most of today’s route was on a paved rail trail with villages every few miles. We were able to pick up a new tube, gas for the stove and enjoy a picnic lunch. My fave!

All is well on the tour and in Midland.

#acaNoTier Ludington to LeRoy, 76 miles | When You’re Pushing 60

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That’s 60 years…. not miles. Here’s some more of what we’ve learned.

Support your local businesses (bike shops, restaurants, brewers, grocers, etc.). We knew our bikes were due for some maintenance so we called Trailhead Bike Shop a few days ahead to get on their schedule and give them the skinny on what might need to be done to the bikes.  We took the bikes in Monday morning and by Monday at 4pm they were ready to ride.

Both the Co-Op and the Cannondale are riding like new. Jeff, Andy and Kendra were over-the-top helpful in explaining what was done and why.

Northern Tier riders, if you need a mid trip tune up, supplies or just air in your tires, this is the place. Call ahead to schedule the tune up though. Their mechanic, Andy, is willing and able but busy (’cause he’s good and thorough).

Protect the bods. Every day we’ve been slathering on the sunscreen and SPFing our lips with ChopSaver.  Since we’re outside everyday for most of the day, sometimes in areas with very little shade, our skin and lips get torched.  And the protection has paid off. No sunburn, no scorched lips.

The ChopSaver lip balm is one of the items that makes the cut to include in the bag I keep in my back pocket (ChopSaver, drivers license, insurance card and Rosary). It’s just that much of a necessity.

Take time to visit. Our camping destination on Tuesday was 6 miles east of LeRoy. The plan was to stop at a small local restaurant to get dinner before heading to the campground since we were unsure of the skeeter situation at the campground. Not fun to eat and cook in Skeeterville.

We found the restaurant tucked back off the road with a view of Sunrise Lake. Walking into the restaurant we were flagged down by Katie who had a coupon for us to use. She herself was stopping in to cash in her birthday dinner coupon.

As we most always do when we enter a restaurant we scan the walls to check for available outlets to charge our devices. Meanwhile Katy invited us to join them for all-you-can-eat fish and chips.

Pretty sure the restaurant didn’t make any money off all-you-can-eat deals when feeding two hungry cyclists. The fried fish was so, so tasty and the convo with Katie, her husband, Butch and friend, Beth even better. Butch and Katie have a farm in LeRoy and shared a few amusing stories about when they were raising their children in Alaska. Beth, thanks for sharing Katy and Butch at dinner. Katie and Butch, thanks for treating us to the best fish fry I think we will ever experience.

Besides the tuneup on our day off, we were able to stock up on food, get to Mass, get laundry done and putz around Ludington meeting a few locals and Mark from Scotland who is from a town very close to our future son-in-law. Small world.

Oh yea we added a route tracker if you want to track our progress toward the finish line in Bar Harbor, ME. Check it out here.

We also cycled down to the Lake Michigan waterfront to watch the sun set which was a pretty righteous way to end our recovery day.

The ride report on Tuesday? A lot less humid, very little wind and a near perfect day of riding.

Looking ahead the weather appears to offer more of the same providing us with a few days of stellar riding conditions as we make our way across Michigan’s mitten, averaging a little over 70 miles daily.

 

#acaNoTier Crandon to Shawano, 73 Miles | Up North

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We have just one more night in Wisconsin and believe we have cycled on some of the most beautiful county roads up north. The lakes, the woods, the rollers all make for memorable riding.

But the storms. Whoa. In Crandon on Thursday we were all set to go when radar revealed more strong storms in the area.

Again. Should we stay or should we go? We were all packed up, helmets and lights on. What to do?

We stayed. We went back into our little motel room at Main Street Inn when at once lightning struck and sizzled something in the building next door. Ouch!

So glad we stayed.

Problem though. Since the Jeepers were in town, Main Street Inn didn’t have a vacancy that night. Storms were predicted for most of the day so we planned an impromptu rest day for Thursday.

After making calls we found a room at the Best Western and stopped and grabbed second breakfast on the rainy ride there.

The BW was luxurious compared to the motels and camping we’d been frequenting. We have come to love the mom and pop motels but the BW was a welcome change. We did nothing but eat, sleep, read, do laundry and look at maps all day. Very restful.

Friday we took off about 6:45am and had a 92 mile ride scheduled. It was still raining but at least there wasn’t any hair-raising lightning.

Again the woods up north are dense and lush. The roads are remote and the lakes, pristine. All make for a stellar ride… even if it is raining.

At Lily we encountered a hefty detour… a bridge was out. Concerned, we looked at our maps for a work-around.

How often does a detour shorten the distance? Well that’s what it did. By 20 miles. Happy dance for me!

We got to Shawano about 2:30pm and that even included a brat stop for lunch.

We are hoping the storms have moved out so we can camp our last night up north. Next stop… the ferry across Lake Michigan.

Also on Friday we found out Lindsey Hein’s I’ll Have Another Podcast was published. Lindsey interviewed us the day before we left about our coast to coast ride, our 50 state marathon chase, family life and more.

If you get a chance give it a listen here. She makes it easy and fun during an interview and if you’ve already read enough about our ride on this blog, check out I’ll Have Another. Her podcast is inspiring for runners, moms, athletes – just about anyone!

And finally happiest of birthdays to my Irish twin brother, John. Love you, bro!

 

#acaNoTier Boulder Junction to Crandon, 74 Miles | Summer Nights in Small Town ‘Merica

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From Tom:

Up early at the lodge, I headed out to the garage where our bikes were stored overnight since they don’t allow bikes in the lodge. For those who don’t know, we always take our bikes into our room with us. Tonight as we were storing the bikes in the garage next to the lodge, I asked if I could get access to the bikes early. They said no problem as they don’t close the garage door and actually don’t ever lock any doors during the day or at night. We aren’t in Indianapolis are we???? 😁

I got bikes cleaned and the chains lubed up and we were ready for a few more days of riding. After a nice breakfast, we got the bags on, did our pushups/planks, had our morning prayer and were standing in the lodge parking lot when we saw a couple fully loaded bikes riding down the street and pull into the grocery store across the street.

You always have to say “hi” to fellow cyclists. We rode across the street and introduced ourselves to Roger and Laura from New Zealand. They are riding from East to West and spent a few weeks riding around Michigan to see family and friends since Laura grew up in Michigan. They are now continuing on to ride the Northern Tier route west.

We also met Marty, a local who came up to say “hi” and has a great talent of whistling. After a 45 minute chat we were on our way.

It was another beautiful day riding through the National Forest of Wisconsin. So far I have to admit Wisconsin has been my favorite state of “pure” bicycle riding of our trip.

We stopped for a coffee and took care of some needed phone calls. We planned on taking the SS Badger Ferry from Manitowoc to Ludington on Saturday. So Deb called the Ferry to get all the details. We wanted to take Sunday off and take the bikes to a bike shop to get our overdue tuneups. They don’t have mechanics in on Sunday, so we scheduled for Monday. So that gives us an extra day to get to the Ferry or an extra day off in Ludington. We will see how the next few days unfold with a forecast of rain.

On the bikes for another 20 miles or so before stopping for a great picnic lunch at a roadside picnic table in Conover. We continued our ride after lunch for few more miles before rolling into a gas station at our next turn. Up walk Dan and Tom who were very curious about what we were doing since they are both cyclists. They were heading home after a successful fishing trip. After a great conversation about cycling and fishing we were on our way for the last 30 miles of our ride.

We rolled into Crandon at about 6pm and decided to grab a motel since no camping was available and forecast of rain early in the morning. We called the Mainstreet Inn and I spoke with the owner. She mentioned she has availability of two queen beds for $52 a night. She mentioned she is out of town, but just grab room #13 key that is in an envelope in the black mailbox.

We weren’t quite sure what kind of place we were getting, but this is my favorite motel so far of the trip. We walked across the street to the drive-in and ordered a double cheeseburger with onion rings and strawberry shake 😁.

I have to say stepping back in time of motels, drive-ins, trusting people and not locking doors is pretty, pretty cool!!!

#acaNoTier Clam Lake to Boulder Junction, 83 miles | Gnats, Mosquitos and Deer Flies, Oh No!

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We are getting closer to Lake Michigan and taking the SS Badger across it to cross our next state line but not before missing every opportunity to live the present moment well.

The day started out laying in our tent devising a plan of action to get out of the campground as fast as possible. The gnats and mosquitos were awful and we didn’t have any fresh water for cooking or washing.

Tom went out first and discovered a front flat tire on his bike. Wouldn’t you know it… a flat, no water for breakfast, swarms of irritating bugs and a flat tire. No problem though! Tom fixed the flat and I got the tent down and bags stuffed quickly and we were on our way by 7am.

Highway 77 was a stellar ride and the first 15 miles went by before we knew it. After second breakfast it was a day of riding much the same as the day before, lots of rollers (we love these), lots of taverns and properties for sale and more timber and lakes – all in a rural setting.

The deer flies though… I had no idea. These rather large buzzing flies like to dive bomb your helmet smashing their bodies against it. And they will wait to swarm until you’re climbing a hill at 4 mph with a raspberry poptart hanging out of your mouth. When you open your mouth to shoo them off, the poptart falls to ground. Here’s how it works:

Apparently there is research that concluded they prefer the color blue and objects that move linearly. Who knew?

We picnicked in Mercer and cycled on to Boulder Junction with the last 15 miles or so on a paved bike trail which we both agreed might have been the best bike trail ever.

We are hotelling it tonight to scrub off three days worth of sunscreen, dirt and bug juice. And we even found walleye fish sammie’s for dinner. #worthridingfor

Our evening ended with ice cream, a walk and planning the next day’s route.

#acaNoTier Haugen to Clam Lake, 85 Miles | Just an Ordinary Day on The Old Road

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West central Wisconsin was gorgeous today. We traveled many country roads and although they are old, they are newly surfaced and infrequently traveled.

Tom says this may have been his favorite day of riding because of the backroads around the lakes, very little wind and although there was almost 3,000 feet of climbing it was hardly noticed because of the twists and turns in the route.

We opted to get dinner in town on our way to the campsite and again reworked our riding plans for the next few days until we get to the Manitowoc ferry. It’s tricky though, because campsites and hotels are scarce as are Warm Showers so it might change again depending how we feel and the weather.

We are now in our tent with a bazillion mosquitos buzzing around just waiting for one of us to emerge.

But… the loons are calling from Clam Lake so I’d say that’s a fine sound to fall asleep to.

#acaNoTier Osceola to Haugen, 69 Miles | From a Latin Mass to a George Jones Tribute Tavern

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We started the day waking up in a luxurious king size bed with lots of clean fluffy pillows. Tom rolled out of bed first and went to get us some coffee. What a champ!

After eating a “free” breakfast with a couple of take-away muffins we were off to 8:30 am Mass at St. Joseph, which was just a block away from our hotel.

As we were going in an usher welcomed us and let us know it was a Latin Mass. Hummm I think we have only been to one in our lives.

It was very different. Gosh it’s hard to imagine what it would be like to experience worship like this every Sunday. I find it to be more of an academic experience than a spiritual one as I tried to figure out the what and whys but I would go again!

And let me tell you, the servers at a Latin Mass bring a whole new meaning to the word Mass server.

We began riding about 10 am and our destination was Edgewater, about 85 miles away.

Rural Wisconsin does not disappoint! The county roads were peaceful, scenic and we even encountered a Classic car show in one of the little towns we rode through. It took all of our self discipline not to stop and stay a while. Brats, bevvies, cheese curds – anything you could ever want – but we pressed on.

Although we were shooting for Edgewater we adjusted our destination due to the heat and wind and ended our ride in Haugen, a very small town that had a nice local grocery and just celebrated 40 years of business. #buylocal

Jim, the proprietor, suggested a campground nearby and drew up some directions for us on his “special” stationary.

We’d set up a time to FaceTime with our kids and were eager to get to the campground so we could make that happen however we were having a bit of trouble finding it. Awww those times when you’re tired, hungry, thirsty and want to be done.

Finally we rolled into the Shady Rest Campground and Mike offered us an air conditioned cabin however we opted to camp. Ya know…. we have that camping for cash challenge going on. Every camp night earns $18 for Back on My Feet or St. Vincent de Paul.

We were able to FaceTime with our kids for only a short bit and then we found that George Jones music is alive and well in west central Wisconsin. This little tavern named PoorFolks had every conceivable George Jones artifact. And the folks in there were a lot of fun to talk to.

We spent a bit of time visiting with them and then set up our tent and took a walk down by the lake. Both of us fell asleep immediately and I with my phone in my hand again as I was trying to get a post completed.

We had just a short sprinkle in the middle of the night as if being sprayed with a little holy water for making it all the way through a Latin Mass and darned if Tom and I didn’t both wake up at the same time to the sound of a guitar string breaking. Not kidding. It was as if old George was saying “good night”.

Today’s video features a song dedicated to Tom – with just days away from his half birthday. In these last few months in your 50’s you’re definitely still rockin’ if not on stage, on your bike. And you def don’t need no rockin’ chair, Tombo!

#acaNoTier Dalbo,MN to Osceola, WI, 55 Miles | Gratitude and Attitude

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From Tom:

Gratitude was the theme for me today. As you know by now, I start my first 10-15 miles having an out loud conversation with God with my prayers for family, friends, special intentions, and more. During my prayers I always pray for my work, RND Group. I am so grateful to work for a company that encourages me to take time off for this wonderful adventure.

How blessed am I? I was thinking today that my 12th anniversary with RND is coming up in a couple of weeks and it got me to think of gratitude of everything that has happened in that 12 years.

  • I met the love of my life, my best friend, and she said “yes” to marrying me
  • Deb has made me feel there is nothing I can’t accomplish!
  • With marriage came four more beautiful children in my life (and two grandchildren 😁)
  • I ran the first marathon of my life, followed by 50 more in 50 states
  • The adventures are more than I can count
  • My children have grown up to be more than I can ever imagine
  • I am so grateful to have the health to ride my bike across the country

I could go on and on for a long time of gratefulness, but here is today’s ride.

We woke up in the bunkhouse, made coffee, packed up, said our good mornings/goodbyes to our new friends as we all ventured off on our bikes in different directions.

After riding a couple of centuries back to back, we decided to keep today’s ride a bit short with a destination of Osceola, 55 miles away. We can control our distance, but we can’t control the wind. Most of our ride was dead south and we saw the flag blowing from the south before we ever pulled out of the bunkhouse driveway. We chugged along mile after mile against the wind. Our legs were ok at the beginning, but the wind just wears on you over time.

We stopped at mile 25 at noon at a bar and grabbed a couple of chicken wraps with French fries and tater tots for Deb. Not too anxious, we jumped on our bikes and ventured on with 30 miles to go. The next 11 miles was dead South and “just suck it up” time. 😀😀😀😀.

With eight miles to go and with a bit of a lead on Deb, I rolled into Shafer and there was a saloon and I was totally out of water. I walked in to the saloon to fill my water bottle, and walked out with a couple of ice cold Summer Shandys.

Needless to say, the Debster was pretty happy for the attitude adjustment waiting for her on the front porch 😀🍺. Let’s just say the last 8 miles went a lot better as we crossed the Wisconsin border with 2 miles to go to our destination of the River Valley Inn.

We checked in, showered up and headed next door for a well deserved dinner. We came back, spread the maps out to plan our next few days after throwing a load of laundry in. Right now, I am typing up this blog and Deb is now folding the laundry 😁👍

We are looking forward to Church tomorrow morning with a Catholic Church within walking distance from our hotel 😁.

Well, signing off for the night.

#acaNoTier Sauk Centre to Dalbo, 100 Miles | Another Century, This One Not a Gimme

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We were still celebrating our second century ride of the trip from Pelican Rapids to Sauk Centre when we decided we’d shoot for another century the following day and ride to Dalbo, Minnesota for our last night in Minnesota.

Yep it was a stretch goal since it’s a bit challenging to ride two 100 mile rides in consecutive days, the winds were not in our favor and it was a bit hotter. But… it was a stretch and those are the most gratifying goals to hit.

We got up with the sun at 5am, quickly packed up and decided to get breakfast on the road. But that wasn’t before serving as a breakfast buffet for the campground mosquitos as we did our planks and pushups before leaving. Little pests!

By 6am we were back on our fave Woebegone Trail that was an offshoot of the Central Lakes Trail.

By 9 am we had 15 miles under our belts, tires pumped up, breakfast at Charlie’s Cafe and we even were able to get to Mass at Sacred Heart Church in Freeport, MN.

We said goodbye to trail cycling a little east of Bowlus and alas returned to the road.

Tom found a place to get a haircut and decided to go “all in” or rather “all off” and requested a “1” all over. He is even faster now with that extra weight dropped and improved aerodynamics.

We could tell when we were getting close to a new town when grain elevators, water towers or a clump of trees appeared. We were clicking off the towns until Dalbo but still, with heavy bikes, loaded bags and a headwind every time we turned south, it wasn’t a gimme.

We saw two cyclists from England riding coast to coast in the opposite direction, Alb and Bod and we stopped to chat. They confirmed our goal and said, “Oh you don’t want to miss the Bunkhouse.”

Per the usual we never know exactly where our campground or hostel is located. We were wondering if we’d missed it when Tom said let’s go up one more house. Sure enough we spied the sign for Donn’s Bicycle Bunkhouse.

And it did NOT disappoint. There is everything a bike traveller would want. You can tell it’s a passion for Donn and Sherry. Their home, the property and the hostel are indescribably hospitable in impeccably clean.

Bunkhouse bunkies included Dan and Emily, westbounders traveling from Boston to Banff, and Roger and Kyle eastbounders like us on the Northern Tier route. Then Doug showed up while he was out on his 170 mile ride. He decided to stay the night too. All good peeps!

In fact, The Bicycle Bunkhouse is so comfty and clean we might do first AND second breakfast here.

Looking forward to entering Wisconsin tomorrow!