Tour Aotearoa Day 15: Camp Epic to Taumarunui, 47 miles, 2,966 feet elevation | Swingers

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This morning was the coldest morning yet so Tom hopped out of the tent and quickly built a fire in the fireplace. Camp Epic’s open air kitchen had a delux cooking set up and a make-your-own breakfast set-up so Tom whipped up some grilled egg sammiches for breaky. My gosh, were they tasty!

We were swingers today as we cycled over deep gorges and streams on several swinging bridges. Today’s Maramataha Bridge is the longest swing bridge on the Timber Trail spanning 282 feet. In fact it’s the longest swing bridge on any cycle trail in New Zealand.

Originally built in 1925 to haul timber out of the forest, it closed in 1958 as logging trucks found an alternate route. Subsequently it was rebuilt for cyclists!

Yay! We finished the Timber Trail today with a very nice ride along what used to be the tramway out of the forest. This made for some nice downhill sections and a tunnel that engineers created to “flatten out” the ride.

As we road through the walls of rock cut to make way for the tram we thought about all the mental and physical effort to build the tram and how grateful we were for its repurposing.

Now these walls of rock are carpeted with ferns and all kinds of plant life.

Tomorrow we cycle to a remote area to find the Bridge to Nowhere. And we’ll no longer be swingers since the bridge is made of concrete. The only way out of this track is by jet boat down the Whanganui River so I guess that makes us jet setters?

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Tour Aotearoa Day 14: Pureora to Camp Epic, 25 miles, 2,684 feet elevation | Timberrrrr

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Timber, lush, green vegetation and old growth forest embraced us as we cycled through the first segment of the Timber Trail, one of New Zealand’s Remote Wilderness Rides.

It was mostly flowy single track the entire day with just a few technical spots.

The day started with a sweet surprise as we celebrated a family reunion riding past the campsite of our TA trail buds, Pippin, Amelia, Sarah and Zach. They were camped less than a quarter mile from us. So good to see the fam again.🥰

Tomorrow we finish the Timber Trail and but not before crossing the longest suspension bridge on the trail.

The Timber Trail has a fascinating history. As it is (was) flush with timber, it naturally became a target for intensive logging. The old growth Pureoran forest was quickly diminishing as loggers fell 100-150 trees a day, and hauled them out to be milled for lumber.

In the late 1970’s environmental activists helped save the ancient forest as they lived in platforms in the trees to prevent continued logging. The subsequent effect? Good for the forest, but not so good for the local economies.

John Key, Prime Minister of New Zealand serving 2008-2016, began efforts to revitalize post logging economies with adventure tourism. Key was instrumental in conceiving the idea of linking the entire country with bike trails. The 53 mile Timber Trail became a part of that plan opening up to cyclists in 2013. Oorah Prime Minister Key!

More swing bridges today (and yes they DO swing when we cycle across them) and a stop at the Timber Trail Lodge for a pizza before heading to Camp Epic where we camped.

We luckily beat the rain and chowed on a Hawaiian pizza until Pippin showed up treating us to a cup of French press coffee.

At Camp Epic we quickly pitched our tent, reveled in a hot shower before a huge downpour and then cooked up the rest of our food in their outdoor kitchen.

Tom built a fire in fireplace and we ended the day with Abbott strumming his ukulele. I call this perfection.

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Tour Aotearoa Day 13: Mangakino to Pureora, 33 miles, 3,576 feet elevation | One Quarter

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Having cycled 500 miles we are one quarter of the way finished with the TA. And today we saw the exact center of the North Island.

But first… we had coffee at the Maraetai Lodge where we splurged for another night between cotton sheets and fluffy pillows at a bike hostel.

Then the obligatory filling of water bottles. We’ve been using these same liter bottles since we started nearly two weeks ago.♻️

Shortly after a flowy single track on the Waikato River Trail we crossed our first swing bridge.

And as if to bookend a beautiful hilly off-road ride today, at the end of the day we stopped to see the abandoned tractor many have written about.

Several of these were imported from… wait for it… Illinois to help with the massive effort to clear timber back in the 1940’s. This one was used for hauling posts and other agricultural equipment.

Unfortunately it threw a piston through its engine block so it just sits where it quit. There is even a cover over it now to help preserve it since it’s become somewhat of an icon.

Tomorrow we move on bicycles from the center of the North Island to the very top of the Tour Aotearoa Trail.

Hope your days are extra special. Thanks for the follow!

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Tour Aotearoa Day 12: Arohena Landing to Mangakino, 26 miles, 2,605 feet elevation | More Hike Than Bike

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We woke up in our tents, peeked out and walked to the lake to view the beginning of a beautiful day. Thanks God!

After our four P’s, (pack-up, push-ups, planks and prayers) we were underway, but first we had a HUGE grind to get up the steep dirt road to get OUT of the campground.

Our plan was to ride 50 miles to Pureora before tackling the much talked about Timber Trail.

As it was, we had only enough gas in the tank to get to Mangakino as today there was a 12 mile single track technical section and some of us (me especially) ended up hiking with the bike rather than riding it.

The trail was gorgeous, but it wore both of us out with its steep, short climbs, tight turns riding loaded bikes, being uber careful to avoid sudden drop offs. It’s as tough to push bikes up these grades as it is to ride them sometimes.

Good news is there is always something pretty to look at and since New Zealand doesn’t have anything in the woods that will kill you, (like grizzlies) that takes the stress out of the whole ordeal.

We met up down by the lake and then climbed back up and headed to Mangakino where we made the decision to break the 50 miles into two shorter days as do a lot of TA riders along this stretch.

Tomorrow we reach the centerpoint of the island where I hope to be riding not hiking with my bike. 🤷🏼‍♀️

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Tour Aotearoa Day 11: Te Ahora to Arohena Landing, 64 miles, 3,250 feet elevation | The Kiss of a Tailwind

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We enjoyed our zero day so much and especially town food and even a little wine.

A whole day off, however, leaves us restless so we were eager to get on the road this morning.

Tom looked out the window last night and saw some of our Canadian buds stopped in town. I immediately recognized Amelia by her yellow neon socks. I couldn’t see anything else but I knew it was her by her socks and ran out barefoot to give them hugs. So good to see them! Those crazy Canadian bebes (as we lovingly call them) rode all day in the rain, taking the more difficult trail, and were camping just outside Te Ahora. No probs for these strong women.💪🏻

We enjoyed the kiss of a tailwind for most of the day and it’s amazing what that will do for your energy. A little rain in the morning didn’t deter us (or the sheep) from getting on about the day.

In Matamata we stopped to take pics at the Hobbitown exhibit near where Lord of the Rings was filmed.

Matamata marks the end of the Hauraki Trail which began back in Kaiaua along the Firth of Thames. It’s a fantastic trail and if you ever get to New Zealand and don’t want cycle the entire North Island, this would be a good section to consider.

We began the Waikato River Trail which included some beautiful single track and a “new to us” extended ride on a boardwalk.

We found a campsite at Arohena Landing on Lake Arapuni and took a quick dip after the tent was set up.

Shortly after dinner we had company! The Canadians and our pal Zach.

We are just missing Pippin, Tasha and Jenine and the posse would be complete.

Now… the thing about tailwinds… they are great until you miss your turn off for the campground and have to turn around and head INTO the wind to backtrack a couple miles. Then it’s more like a face slap than a kiss. My advice is don’t ever let me give directions.😂

Here’s proof of just that.

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Tour Aotearoa Day 10: Paeroa to Te Ahora, 15 miles, 240 feet elevation | Lay Up

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After looking at the forecast the next few days it’s a no brainer to take a day off. We’re lucky we have no time constraints. However, if we have to be holed up for a couple nights we realized it would be better to move on down the road and get a place closer to town.

Tom found the best spot… a little motel with a studio available right in the middle of town close to cafes, pubs and resupply. And we weren’t the only ones with that idea. At least six other bicycles are in the bike keep.

On the way to Te Ahora we met Anders from Sweden who is also riding the TA. Poor guy got food poisoning on the flight to NZ so had to start from Auckland.

We got to town just in time to catch the last part of Sunday Mass and as we left church in a huge downpour we took shelter in the Duck and Cover since it was too early to check into our motel.

It was a GREAT place to spend Sunday Funday realizing we get to enjoy a zero day tomorrow.

Sweet Glynis who checked us onto the motel could not have been nicer.

She kept running up to our studio with treats for us…. like fresh milk, museli and yogurt for breakfast, red wine before our mineral water soak, chocolate truffles and thick towels for the soak. We definitely appreciate her kindness.

Day off tomorrow… and then we ride toward the interior of the North Island getting closer to the infamous Timber Trail and the center point of the North Island.

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Tour Aotearoa Day 9: Orere Point to Paeroa, 54 miles, 1,024 feet elevation | Holy Cow!

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Important info on cows coming your way, but first, more on “firths.” Try saying that quickly ten times.😂

We stopped for second breakfast at a petro station in Kaiaua adjacent to the Firth of Thames (the body of water by which we are riding) and met Gill and Val, locals from Hamilton who are on holiday.

We had a lovely chat about how New Zealand is changing but just know the Firth of “Thames” does not rhyme with “James”, said Gill. It’s pronounced “temz”, like rhyming with “gems”.

These pronunciations and the names of the towns make route planning and conversations an adventure. And btw, those petro meat pies are 💯

So about the cows… according to the guidebook we are using, dairy cows “are the main engine and exhaust pipe of New Zealand’s economy.” That was news to me. I thought sheep products were their main industry but apparently New Zealand is one of the top dairy producers in the world, while wool and mutton have been declining recently.

Ironically after cycling through a rain shower a dairyman was moving his cows to another pasture and well, you know we just had to stop and have a chat. Everyone is so dang nice here and willing to chat it up with us.

We watched as he moved them along. Then I thanked him for the chocolate milk I enjoyed for breakfast just this morning and we were on our way to Paerora.

Tourism, however remains a major contributor to their economy due to the stunning landscapes, adventure activities and I think, the “kiwi” kindness.

We are continually awed at the beauty of New Zealand, the sea scapes, rural areas and especially her people.

Tomorrow a three day front is moving in that will likely bring a LOT of rain and wind. And this is just as we begin some technical sections of the trail so there will be decisions to make about laying up or pressing on. Stay tuned friends!

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Tour Aotearoa Day 8: Auckland to Orere Point, 50 miles, 2,405 feet elevation | Pacific Coast Highway

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We in the US think of the PCH as “west”, or I do anyway.

Here down under we have now crossed the North Island latitudinally and are enjoying views on the east side of the country along the Pacific Coast Highway. I put a pin where we stop every night to plot our progress on the Route Tracker at night.

Today was kind of an easier day, well except for getting out of Auckland at rush hour. Woof. It just takes time. We had such a nice variety of riding though – through parks, rural areas and some of the coast. And the sun was behind the clouds for a good part of the day which made it easier on the skin.

As we were cycling out of Auckland we stopped in a family owned Filipino bakery for a muffin and coffee.

Best muffin ever I thought and when I let the young lady know that, she said her mother makes them everyday. So, well, we just had to meet her. And her son is the chef!

Tomorrow we head toward the Firth of Thames. If you don’t know what a “firth” is, and no I’m not lisping, it’s a long narrow inlet off of the sea. I only know because I had to look it up. 😂 Ya never know when that one will pop up in Wordle.

Since New Zealand is one of the countries at the lead of the International Date Line, we were first to wish each other and our family and friends at home a Happy Valentine’s Day. Hope yours is extra special too. Thanks for the follow!

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Tour Aotearoa Day 7: Pouto to Auckland, 32 miles, 2,287 elevation | Awesome Auckland

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We had just two goals today: 1) Be sure to be at the wharf at 7:45am to board the ferry and 2) ride to Auckland. ✅ and ✅

So take down tent, pack bags, make coffee and get to the wharf.

Us and about 25 other cyclists.

This was not the ferryman’s first rodeo shuttling cyclists. He had a plan for each man and it worked. Bikes boarded first, then bodies and bags.

The Māori name for New Zealand is Aotearoa or “Land of the Long White Cloud”. Appropriate I’d say.

Kinda nice to be sitting on a boat bench rather than a bike saddle.

Zach is FundRiding for Pancreatic Cancer which took his mom’s life two years ago. He and his mom, Wendy used to bike tour together.

Though Wellington is the capital, Auckland is more populated with almost 1.7 people, and it’s a bit tricky to navigate when on bikes (kilometers and driving on the opposite side of the road throw in a couple ringers as well). We scored a beautiful Marriot properly using our friends and family discount, thanks Anne!

Once there we walked around the city and as always, found food. Wow! Is this city multicultural!

Auckland you a really are awesome but we’ll have to say goodbye to you tomorrow.

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Tour Aotearoa Day 6: Dargaville to Pouto, 43 miles, 2,933 elevation | The End

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The end of the best day so far.

We began the day with the usual, pack up, push ups, planks and prayers and headed to Pouto where the plan was to lay up to catch a three hour ferry at 8am to cross Kaipara Harbor. But first… coffee with Pippin.

We stopped to resupply on our way out of town as we were told there would be nothing at Pouto.

The day went as planned, and we arrived to find around 25 cyclists camped or sheltered in the bunkhouse all waiting to board the ferry Tom chartered three months ago along with several RVs posted up near the community center enjoying the view and time with friends.

Shortly after we arrived, Tracy let us know our dehydrated food wouldn’t be needed tonight and that Pete and Marian caught several red snapper she was cooking up for dinner. What? For all of us? Yes! And there would be vegetables! 🍠🥬 Yes, and cold beer was waiting in the fridge for us.🍻

And after that she told us she wouldn’t accept any money for the food and beer but if we would like to make a donation to Zach who was cycling the Tour Aotearoa to collect money for Pancreatic Cancer we were free to do so.

Wallets opened, beers drank, fish consumed and chatter commenced on what I think was the best night so far.

Just before the moon began to rise, local Sue quietly approached us and wondered if we would like to see the view from next door at her little bach (a kiwi vacation home).

“Yes”! We followed her to a modest property, small and very old and she shared more about her bach, her family and New Zealand. Just lovely, and so unexpected.

So grateful for the beautiful people and sites we have encountered, and it’s really not the end, just the beginning!

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