We enjoyed our zero day so much and especially town food and even a little wine.
A whole day off, however, leaves us restless so we were eager to get on the road this morning.
Tom looked out the window last night and saw some of our Canadian buds stopped in town. I immediately recognized Amelia by her yellow neon socks. I couldn’t see anything else but I knew it was her by her socks and ran out barefoot to give them hugs. So good to see them! Those crazy Canadian bebes (as we lovingly call them) rode all day in the rain, taking the more difficult trail, and were camping just outside Te Ahora. No probs for these strong women.💪🏻
We enjoyed the kiss of a tailwind for most of the day and it’s amazing what that will do for your energy. A little rain in the morning didn’t deter us (or the sheep) from getting on about the day.
In Matamata we stopped to take pics at the Hobbitown exhibit near where Lord of the Rings was filmed.
Matamata marks the end of the Hauraki Trail which began back in Kaiaua along the Firth of Thames. It’s a fantastic trail and if you ever get to New Zealand and don’t want cycle the entire North Island, this would be a good section to consider.
We began the Waikato River Trail which included some beautiful single track and a “new to us” extended ride on a boardwalk.
We found a campsite at Arohena Landing on Lake Arapuni and took a quick dip after the tent was set up.
Shortly after dinner we had company! The Canadians and our pal Zach.
We are just missing Pippin, Tasha and Jenine and the posse would be complete.
Now… the thing about tailwinds… they are great until you miss your turn off for the campground and have to turn around and head INTO the wind to backtrack a couple miles. Then it’s more like a face slap than a kiss. My advice is don’t ever let me give directions.😂
After looking at the forecast the next few days it’s a no brainer to take a day off. We’re lucky we have no time constraints. However, if we have to be holed up for a couple nights we realized it would be better to move on down the road and get a place closer to town.
Tom found the best spot… a little motel with a studio available right in the middle of town close to cafes, pubs and resupply. And we weren’t the only ones with that idea. At least six other bicycles are in the bike keep.
On the way to Te Ahora we met Anders from Sweden who is also riding the TA. Poor guy got food poisoning on the flight to NZ so had to start from Auckland.
We got to town just in time to catch the last part of Sunday Mass and as we left church in a huge downpour we took shelter in the Duck and Cover since it was too early to check into our motel.
It was a GREAT place to spend Sunday Funday realizing we get to enjoy a zero day tomorrow.
Sweet Glynis who checked us onto the motel could not have been nicer.
She kept running up to our studio with treats for us…. like fresh milk, museli and yogurt for breakfast, red wine before our mineral water soak, chocolate truffles and thick towels for the soak. We definitely appreciate her kindness.
Day off tomorrow… and then we ride toward the interior of the North Island getting closer to the infamous Timber Trail and the center point of the North Island.
Important info on cows coming your way, but first, more on “firths.” Try saying that quickly ten times.😂
We stopped for second breakfast at a petro station in Kaiaua adjacent to the Firth of Thames (the body of water by which we are riding) and met Gill and Val, locals from Hamilton who are on holiday.
We had a lovely chat about how New Zealand is changing but just know the Firth of “Thames” does not rhyme with “James”, said Gill. It’s pronounced “temz”, like rhyming with “gems”.
These pronunciations and the names of the towns make route planning and conversations an adventure. And btw, those petro meat pies are 💯
So about the cows… according to the guidebook we are using, dairy cows “are the main engine and exhaust pipe of New Zealand’s economy.” That was news to me. I thought sheep products were their main industry but apparently New Zealand is one of the top dairy producers in the world, while wool and mutton have been declining recently.
Ironically after cycling through a rain shower a dairyman was moving his cows to another pasture and well, you know we just had to stop and have a chat. Everyone is so dang nice here and willing to chat it up with us.
We watched as he moved them along. Then I thanked him for the chocolate milk I enjoyed for breakfast just this morning and we were on our way to Paerora.
Tourism, however remains a major contributor to their economy due to the stunning landscapes, adventure activities and I think, the “kiwi” kindness.
We are continually awed at the beauty of New Zealand, the sea scapes, rural areas and especially her people.
Tomorrow a three day front is moving in that will likely bring a LOT of rain and wind. And this is just as we begin some technical sections of the trail so there will be decisions to make about laying up or pressing on. Stay tuned friends!
We in the US think of the PCH as “west”, or I do anyway.
Here down under we have now crossed the North Island latitudinally and are enjoying views on the east side of the country along the Pacific Coast Highway. I put a pin where we stop every night to plot our progress on the Route Tracker at night.
Today was kind of an easier day, well except for getting out of Auckland at rush hour. Woof. It just takes time. We had such a nice variety of riding though – through parks, rural areas and some of the coast. And the sun was behind the clouds for a good part of the day which made it easier on the skin.
As we were cycling out of Auckland we stopped in a family owned Filipino bakery for a muffin and coffee.
Best muffin ever I thought and when I let the young lady know that, she said her mother makes them everyday. So, well, we just had to meet her. And her son is the chef!
Tomorrow we head toward the Firth of Thames. If you don’t know what a “firth” is, and no I’m not lisping, it’s a long narrow inlet off of the sea. I only know because I had to look it up. 😂 Ya never know when that one will pop up in Wordle.
Since New Zealand is one of the countries at the lead of the International Date Line, we were first to wish each other and our family and friends at home a Happy Valentine’s Day. Hope yours is extra special too. Thanks for the follow!
We had just two goals today: 1) Be sure to be at the wharf at 7:45am to board the ferry and 2) ride to Auckland. ✅ and ✅
So take down tent, pack bags, make coffee and get to the wharf.
Us and about 25 other cyclists.
This was not the ferryman’s first rodeo shuttling cyclists. He had a plan for each man and it worked. Bikes boarded first, then bodies and bags.
The Māori name for New Zealand is Aotearoa or “Land of the Long White Cloud”. Appropriate I’d say.
Kinda nice to be sitting on a boat bench rather than a bike saddle.
Zach is FundRiding for Pancreatic Cancer which took his mom’s life two years ago. He and his mom, Wendy used to bike tour together.
Though Wellington is the capital, Auckland is more populated with almost 1.7 people, and it’s a bit tricky to navigate when on bikes (kilometers and driving on the opposite side of the road throw in a couple ringers as well). We scored a beautiful Marriot properly using our friends and family discount, thanks Anne!
Once there we walked around the city and as always, found food. Wow! Is this city multicultural!
Auckland you a really are awesome but we’ll have to say goodbye to you tomorrow.
We began the day with the usual, pack up, push ups, planks and prayers and headed to Pouto where the plan was to lay up to catch a three hour ferry at 8am to cross Kaipara Harbor. But first… coffee with Pippin.
We stopped to resupply on our way out of town as we were told there would be nothing at Pouto.
The day went as planned, and we arrived to find around 25 cyclists camped or sheltered in the bunkhouse all waiting to board the ferry Tom chartered three months ago along with several RVs posted up near the community center enjoying the view and time with friends.
Shortly after we arrived, Tracy let us know our dehydrated food wouldn’t be needed tonight and that Pete and Marian caught several red snapper she was cooking up for dinner. What? For all of us? Yes! And there would be vegetables! 🍠🥬 Yes, and cold beer was waiting in the fridge for us.🍻
And after that she told us she wouldn’t accept any money for the food and beer but if we would like to make a donation to Zach who was cycling the Tour Aotearoa to collect money for Pancreatic Cancer we were free to do so.
Wallets opened, beers drank, fish consumed and chatter commenced on what I think was the best night so far.
Just before the moon began to rise, local Sue quietly approached us and wondered if we would like to see the view from next door at her little bach (a kiwi vacation home).
“Yes”! We followed her to a modest property, small and very old and she shared more about her bach, her family and New Zealand. Just lovely, and so unexpected.
So grateful for the beautiful people and sites we have encountered, and it’s really not the end, just the beginning!
As we left the harbor-side cafe this morning just outside the historic coastal village of Ōmāpere, a friendly gentleman said “Whatddya up to today mate?” Tom explained the ride and destination. The man smiled and replied, “They’re some good grinders up ahead.”
Great, I’m thinking! I could use a good sammich for lunch! Maybe even second breakfast. I’m thinking lots of shredded lettuce, provolone, a variety of salty meats, tomato, salt, pepper and some oil and vinegar. Oh I could taste it.
Nope! Not what he meant. Grinders. Big hills that will chew and grind your muscles right up. 😂
We did ok on those hills tho, and Tom made them look easy. The key is to ride your own ride. And getting to ride through the Waipoua Forest and meet Tane Manuto was worth more than any sammich.
And look who showed up at the top of one of those hills and passed us while I stopped to make some strap adjustments. Perrine! Her bike is holding up well and she’s still smiling big.
More about that tree we set out to meet today, Tane Mahuta, or “Lord of the Forest”, is the world’s largest living kauri tree is believed to be between 1,200-1,500 years old. With a girth of about 46 feet and 160 feet tall, he is massive.
The kauri trees are second in size only to the giant sequoias in California. Sadly, due to extensive harvesting and clearing land for farms by early Europeans, their numbers are declining. Only in areas that are difficult to access do kauri groves remain. Good news is they are still much loved AND now protected. In fact there is a shoe scrubbing and washing station before the walk to the site.
More excellent gravel riding today (scenic, friendly gravel and no chasing doggos like in Louisiana). Apparently though, dogs and kiwi birds aren’t compatible.
Today we experience our first ferry ride in NZ and felt like we put in a respectable ride.
The ferry ride came near the middle of the day and gave us a break from riding even though it was only 15 minutes long. And it was a good time to check in on Super Bowl updates. 🏈
Also in the news of firsts… Tom saw his first mammal larger than a dead possum in the road and double bonus, the animal wasn’t dead. A live boar ran across his path while on some gravel backroad. That’s cool!!
Me? I’m just looking for beautiful overlooks. And there are sooo many!
A tasty meat pie for Tom in Broadwood from a petro station and some fish and chips after the ferry for me and I’d say the day couldn’t get much better.
Plus we opted for an inside stay with a pub attached (and yes, don’t judge us, more fish and chips). It was a view with an old school, historic room (not the other way around) and it was worth every penny.
That’s all for now. Tomorrow we meet a mighty tree.
All I can say was when we woke up from a restful sleep in our little tent after that ride yesterday, we were both very HUNGRY and looking for cheeseburgers before the day was over.
Mission accomplished.
And it was a much easier ride on 90 Mile Beach today. We only had 18 miles to ride to Ahipara and the wind was significantly less.
Here’s the kicker… 90 Mile Beach isn’t really 90 miles long and I still don’t know why it’s named 90 MILE beach when distances of that length are measured in kilometers.🤷🏼♀️ Tom however has done his research.
Apparently, it was named by the earliest European settlers who knew their horses could ride 30 miles a day. It took them three days to ride down the beach so they THOUGHT they travelled 90 miles and named it. Nope! They didn’t account for the sand which is more difficult for the horses to walk on. It’s actually only 55 miles. And below, my friends, is the end of 90 Mile Beach!
There are many cyclists camping here tonight that are riding the TA. Our campground is like an uber clean, home stay with a huge kitchen to cook in. Beautiful vegetation, well cared for gathering room to charge devices or visit and even clothes lines are available. And there isn’t a spot of rubbish anywhere. The kitchen includes three gas stoves, sinks, three refrigerators and pots, pans and plates! We even used the French Press for coffee. And it is SPOTLESS! Can we get these types of campgrounds in the US?
Early on in the ride today we spotted two Māori women collecting tua tua, the shellfish we tried last night. We stopped to chat to ask how long it took them to collect their bag full. Ten minutes they said, and then they demonstrated how easy it is.
It might be easy but we were still on the hunt for cheeseburgers.
One other story and both are God winks. Tom and I both begin each ride everyday with a prayer, not only for our safely and our family, friends and neighbors back home, but for many of the people we meet along the way.
You may recall we shuttled up to the Cape with Zoe, a solo female rider from Auckland who is riding a much faster pace than us. I like to think of her as an Ambassador of the TA Facebook group. She gives so much helpful advice all the while trying to squeeze in the ride in a certain amount of time due to her work constraints.
In fact the day she started the ride, she stopped off at a bike shop to pick up a derailleur cable for another women she’d never met who was stranded up near the Cape. Her name is Perrine (Tom lovingly calls her Pippin) and she is originally from France but now lives in Montreal.
Lo and behold, Perrine got her cable fixed and camped two tents down from us on our first night on the Bay. Zoe of course was already in Huketere, 💪🏻
Unfortunately, yesterday we saw Perrine once again stranded in the middle of Te Paki stream, this time with a broken chain and her back bike tire sunk deep into the mud.
We stopped but didn’t have the correct size master link so there was as nothing we could do to fix the chain. We so hoped she would find a way to continue her ride, but dang… it was doubtful. She’s run into so many obstacles.
Somehow she walked her bike all the way back through the stream and again was able to get her bike chain fixed.
How do we know? Because as we were walking down the street in Ahipara to get groceries and a voice called out from a white pickup truck, “Hey my American friends!” It was Pippin and she was staying with a Warm Showers host. I sure hope we cross paths again so we can find out how she got herself out of that rough patch.
Ok long story but Tom and I both feel that sometimes the best thing we can do for friends we meet along the way is ask God to watch over them. In this case, prayers answered. And Zoe is making great time. Thanks God!
Finally one of my fav pics of the day, riders on horses enjoying the Tasman Sea.
What an unforgettable day on so many levels. It was gorgeous, it was challenging and it’s the first time we’ve ever ridden down a stream (not across the water, down the stream).
But first coffee and filtering four liters of water for today’s ride.
Once we got rolling we had a lovely ride to the turn off for Te Paki Stream, our access to 90 Mile Beach. Not gonna lie, I was a little apprehensive about riding distance through sand and water to get to 90 Mile Beach, but it was easier than riding to the turn off. You can have a look at what riding in Te Paki looked like in the video at the bottom.
At the end, the stream opened up to a vast view of the Tasman Sea. It was incredible! What wasn’t incredible was the strong headwind and gusts. I thought it was my lack of training but after talking to locals at the end of the day, indeed, it was a b$tt kicker of a gusty day.
It reminded us of riding through the dessert near Glamis, California on the Southern Tier. On top of that we didn’t plan well for food and basically were riding on no food/no energy. Won’t do that again.
Just when you’re looking for something more to look at than the Tasman Sea, a new friend shows up.
When we got to Huketere, Gabi, owner of the campground, suggested we try some tua tua, the shellfish we’d seen people collecting on the beach. They would remind you of tiny oysters. I tried them but I think they are an acquired taste. Actually it’s not the taste, it’s the texture!
We met an interesting couple from Spain traveling with their five year old. Paul and Maria have their own business. He is a performer and she, a musician. To be honest, he is a clown but after looking at their Insta, he is a definitely a performer.
And Jane from the South Island, who is also riding the TA is supported by her husband driving this rig while we are traveling lighter in our little tent.
It’s not just the cycling but the people we meet along the way and learning more about the place we are visiting.
There’s much more to share about today but will close for now for some sleep.
Big thanks to Tom for trying to work as a human windshield today. He would have probably finished at noon if not for ole untrained grandma. 😊
Keep Calm and Pedal On 