Not sure how we find these epic rides, but the Republic of Chile’s Carretera Austral is where we’re headed for our winter cycling adventure. This point-to-point route through Patagonia “remains one of the world’s most remote and spectacular road trips, where every kilometer tests your resolve and rewards your persistence.” In fact, the BBC highlights the Carretera Austral as one of the six most extraordinary roads in the world.
Also known as the “Southern Highway”, this 770 mile road which begins in Puerto Montt and ends in Villa O’Higgins is not yet completed. Military dictator Augusto Pinochet started the project in 1976 in an effort to connect remote pueblos using the Chilean Army’s Engineering Command. Today most of the first half is paved with the southern half made up of gravel roads. The route also includes a couple of ferry rides just to keep it spicy and complicate logistics.
What can we expect from our southbound ride on Ruta 7? Lots of climbing, wind, probably a few rainy days thrown in and having Google Translate at the ready on our cell phones. Although we’ve been learning a few common Spanish phrases in preparation for our ride, we know we have a lot more to learn.
We’ll also likely see Chilean fjords, glaciers, rain forests, river confluences, glacial lakes, snow capped Andean mountains, pueblos, two national parks (Hornopirén National Park known for its volcanoes and Quelat National Park with its hanging glacier, pictured below) Hoping to see and hear an array of native birds and maybe even an Andean Condor, although I sure don’t want to see them circling over us.
There is a well known quote among locals and those who ride the Carretera Austral. “El que se apura, perde el tiempo.” He who hurries, wastes time. The point is…. slow down and truly enjoy it. So those are our marching orders.
As was the case when we rode the Tour Aotearoa from north to south in New Zealand, there’s little opportunity to train for the ride in Indianapolis in January. Our plan is to take it nice and slow and enjoy the people and places we encounter, staying true to the wisdom of a slower pace.
However, contrary to the New Zealand bike tour, we’re leaving our Cuttys at home and have instead opted to rent mountain bikes in Puerto Varas. Once we arrive at the southern terminus of the Carretera Austral in Villa O’Higgins, Austral Bikes will pickup our rented bikes and we’ll take a 2-3 day bus ride back to Balmeceda, fly to Santiago and then on to Lima, Peru where we have a short treehouse stay along the Amazon River followed by a hike on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and then on to Quito, Ecuador for a week of exploring the Galapagos Islands. Having bikes in tow would complicate our travel in a big way.
What lies beyond Villa O’Higgins where the road ends?
Only the third largest ice field in the world after Antarctica and Greenland. By contrast, the Atacama Desert is located in northern Chile and is the worlds driest desert with some regions never having recorded any rainfall. Chili appears to be a country rich in contrasts, natural beauty and culture. Vamos!
Keep Calm and Pedal On 